Ubud, Bali, Indonesia: Yoga, Nature, Humidity, Sickness, Massage, Peace (in no particular order)...

Whoa - it has been like 10 days since I made an update to the blog! I'm guessing those who really read it are wondering why it has taken me so long - but really, I've made an honest attempt to unplug and just experience things here. I have been on Facebook now and then, still texting a few friends over the Internet, but haven't had the time to put into updating the blog (as it takes a lot of time to write this and upload pictures!). I'll give a brief overview of what's been going on...

So - most everyone knows there are 2 primary reasons I am in Bali right now - the first being yoga, the second to meet with my friends whom I last saw in India (also via Yoga). Both have been going really well! I REALLY like the approach that Prem and Radha have to Ashtanga Vinyasa Yoga - combined they have over 50 years of experience (Prem has been doing it for a very long time and you can tell when interacting with him). I think they know how to fit the practice to the student while still maintaining integrity and purpose, rather than simply making the student conform to an ideal and just do it. It's a very subtle gift (artform, really) that few teachers have, in my experience. Many people know the Ashtanga sequence, but how many know it so deep that they can see aspects of you in your practice, your personality, your energy and know exactly what kind of adjustment to give, how to break things down for individual understanding, etc. Prem and Radha click that like for me. I knew this before I even came to Bali - Prem has a book called "The Only Way Out Is In" (search for it on Amazon if you're interested) that I read previously, and just through that, I could tell I would resonate with the 2 of them. I am already having thoughts about coming back here in a year's time or so to continue study with them...

So that's the first part of our mornings - the girls and I leave our Villas around 7:45am, make the 5 minute walk to the Shala, setup the mats, Call for the Opening Mantra is at 8am sharp, 2 hours of practice, and then afterwards you can buy a coconut for 10,000 Indonesian Rupiah (like USD $1), and then head back to the Villas for a quick shower and change of clothes. Breakfast is free here until 11am, and usually we just make the cutoff. At first Breakfast was really nice - your choice of a set of 3 different kinds of breakfast: Continental (Toast, Butter/Jam, Fruit), American (the same as Continental but you get an Egg Omlette and Ham if you desire, but we're all Vegetarian so we leave that out), or Indonesian (Usually Mie Goreng, or some rice dish). Also you get a fruit plate, free juice and tea/coffee. After 10 days or so of this, it's getting a little repetative, but we can't beat the convienence and the price!

Oh I forgot to mention - Prem and Radha have Discussion and Q&A on Thursdays after practice, so that particular Thursday the girls went into town for breakfast. I suspect we'll do the same this coming Thursday...

After eating breakfast, we usually lounge around and chat, laugh, reminisce, catch up, and laugh some more. I love these girls so much - they are just amazing people, all of us click so easily together. It's like we've been friends for 20 years, and I suspect we will try to keep in touch for a long time to come, at least I will - it's very special what we have going on...

Days are very relaxed and laid back - they often consist of going for a swim in the pool (the villa complex in which we stay has a nice Pool), reading on our own, or walking into Ubud town. We are in a part of Ubud that's a little remote from the hustle and bustle of the actual town (which, during the week, is VERY busy with a lot of traffic and activity). To get there, we have to go through the Monkey Forest, which is basically a big forest where - you guessed it - a lot of Monkeys live! There is a tourist entrance that you have to pay for if you want to go down to the main drag and interact with the monkeys, but otherwise there's a separate footpath that we usually take to just cut through to Ubud. Initially, the monkeys are cute and it's fun to watch them play with each other, jump all around, etc. However, they can be mean - like really obnoxious! They often grab people's bags, rip them open so everything comes flying out, and scour it for food. They're used to people giving them food, as that's part of the tourist trap for the attraction - you give the monkey food, you watch them up close and personal. One of them even jumped on my friend - I wasn't there but I'm sure it was scary. I don't like them much so I try to stay away - and most of the time they leave you alone if you don't have anything flashy or swinging off your arm. Put away your sunglasses, your camera / cell phone, even brightly colored scarfs or clothing, else the monkeys will likely come and harass you.

Yesterday I had my first experience with that - perhaps it was the time of day that we were walking back from Ubud town to the villas. I think most of the tourists had gone home and there was just foot and motorbike traffic on the upper path where we normally walk. All of a sudden one of the young monkeys hissed at me at started to follow me. I became a little freaked out, and started walking faster. I pursued a little faster still. I don't know what he saw that he wanted but sometimes, I'm told, they just like to make trouble! They're like obnoxious 3 year old children who provoke you to see what you'll do, what food they can get, or just cause mischief. Eventually I turned a corner and lost him, but seriuosly that was freaky - I'm hesitant to walk through that forest anymore, but you basically have to in order to get to town - the only other way is a really far detour that you'd have to drive, meaning either rent a motorbike or get a taxi...

Don't know why I haven't tried to rent a motorbike here. Driving in Ubud can be dangerous, I guess - I mean, I did it in Thailand so I'm not a complete stranger (and both countries, Thailand and Indonesia, drive on the left, whereas I'm used to the right)...

Anyways, once you get through Monkey Forest the rest of Ubud is quite charming. Lots and LOTS of arts and crafts, clothing for sale. Some of the galleries house really beautiful paintings! I didn't price them but they are quite lovely. There are the usual Kopitiams (similar to Malaysia Coffee shops, but probably a bit nicer, at least in my experience in both places). One of my favorites is this place called "Kafe" on Hanoman street, really laid back, lots of funky westerners, fantastic food too! Pricey though...

Speaking of price, I've had a hard time adjusting to the currency here. It's usually in thousands of Rupiah, and sometimes your bill at a restaurant or clothing shop or whatever can be like 250,000 Rupiah! Just so you know, that's like USD $25 - so it's not that outrageous, but probably more expensive than other parts of Bali, since there are so many tourists here...

I did get to bargain for some clothing - 2 nice button down shirts and a sarong! I wore one of the outfits to dinner and I got some nice compliments for it. All I need is the Balinese headress and I'm set! Maybe before I leave I'll get one...

Let's see what else? Oh yes - the latter part of last week I was really sick. Basically, I might have gotten something in Korea that took a few days to ferment in my stomach and become full blown sickness. I had been feeling the grumbling sound in my stomach just like I had in India, in Malaysia, in Thailand... It's called something different in every city or country. Here it's Bali Belly, in India it's known by many names (Delhi Belly, Calcutta 2-step which is my favorite, etc.) Seems I always get a gastrointestinal parasite or something when I travel in Asia. At first, I though I would wait a day or so to see if my body took care of things on its own. But by the 3rd day, I had enough of being tied to the toilet and bedroom (one of the days I didn't leave the villa at all, I was constantly going!). I had to skip yoga too which really sucked...

So on the third day of sickness I decided to go to the local clinic. The resort was kind enough to drive me there, and even wait for me while I saw the doctor. They examined me, took my vitals, etc. But also wanted me to give a blood sample and a stool sample (YUCK!!! Never have I done anything so disgusting in my life!!!), but I wanted to get this taken care of, so if it helps them confirm their diagnosis, ok. In retrospect, I think they just wanted to charge me more for the tests, but whatever...

So the result? Salmonella! It is a nasty bacteria that you want to get taken care of right away, I wish I had done it sooner. In fact I remember when I had dysentary in India, I told myself that I would go for western medical care immediately should it happen again. LOL I guess that didn't work as planned since I waited 3 days! But now on some strong antibiotics which appear to be working very well. I am so grateful for them!

The sickness was probably the worst part of my experience thus far (it was not fun at all), but the best has to be the Balinese people themselves. They are so charming, so kind, and genuinely happy! It's amazing - they smile at you, they always say hello, they like to engage and interact. Some of them are so beautiful in their physical features too - I guess it's like any culture, but I found some of the South Koreans and Balinese on this trip to be quite attractive. But it's their energy that makes you feel happy!

Oh just remembered - there's another restaurant that's within easy walking distance of our villa called "D'Warang" or something (actually most things are within walking distance, and there are LOTS of restaurants and cafes called Warang, just like every restaurant in India seems to be a variant of "German Bakery" LOL - friends who have been to India will understand that one, the rest of you might not :-) ). Anyway, for the first week here we basically ate at D'Warang almost every evening - it's very small and run by this lovely Balinese woman who definitely knows how to cook! I think someone said she used to work in a 5 star resort, not sure where. Anyway, not only is the food good there, but "D" comes up to our table every time we're there and chats us up! She is a social butterfly and loves to engage with her customers, asking them almost everything, where are you from, why you are in Bali, etc.

Now for me, because I'm American, she has a special name for me - "Mr. New York". Actually when she says it, it's more like "Meeesteerrr Neewww YORRRKKKK!!!!", even though I repeatedly tell her I am not from New York! I guess they just know about New York and Los Angeles as the major cities of the U.S. I later realized there is a double meaning behind this name - via another American guy who frequents the restaurant as well. This guy actually IS from New York, a bonifide Italian American with a thick, New York accent. "Ehh Fuggedahboutit" LOL. "D" only told us about him at first, and we didn't meet him until later. This burly American guy comes to our table and asks to clear our plates - I thought it strange, who is this man? Then "D" Comes up and points to him and says "MEEESTER NEW YORK!!!" Ohhhhhh so YOU'RE the famous one! I chat with him a bit, he's a nice guy and really has affection for "D" since he helps her out by cleaning the tables, etc. - this is a customer mind you, who just enjoys the place that much and wants to connect with "D" and her family. I should try to get a picture of not only "D" but also Mr. New York before I leave. We'll see...

What else? Oh - today I had my first Balinese massage. O-M-G it was amazing! There are spas upon spas upon spas in Ubud, so you easily have your pick of where you want to go. Some places are really cheap, some more expensive, but I'm finding that you often get what you pay for in Bali in terms of hygiene, service, etc. (not just spas but restaurants, resorts, etc. Seems obvious right?) Though the Villa where I stay has a spa too (which I might try later on), I opted to go for the recommended place just up the street (my friend who has been to Bali before said that was really nice). She was right!! Super nice space, very clean and tidy, fresh flowers, running water, the works! It was 207,000 Indonesian Rupiah for a 60 minute Balinese Traditional Massage. That's about USD $20!! The equivalent done in the U.S. would probably cost $100 at minimum, but likely more...

Anyway, I pay, and I'm led all the way down a path into the villa complex which is much larger than it appears on the road. I go to the spa area, I enter and it's 2 beds nicely made with fresh flower pedals around. I think normally they do couples massage there. I'm told to go to the shower room (really big place, very clean), and change into a kimono robe. Then they give you this paper underwear thing that's like - really strange! But whatever, I'm not shy, it's all professional anyway, it's too nice a place to be the one that gives "Happy Ending" if you know what I mean...

So I change, and come back into a room to be greeted by yet another person. This time, a young man was about 25 years old, give or take a few years. He will be my masseur. Ok, on the table, let's roll.... Ohhhhh My God...... this kid's hands are amazing.... He has to have been doing this for 10 years or so, it seemed to me. It was really, really good. Afterwards, I go to the adjacent shower and have, for the first time in a week and a half, a proper, hot, full pressure shower, as the Villa where I stay has a nice bathroom for sure, but the water pressure is really weak for the temperature that is most comfortable to shower. If you put it hot, it's SCOLDING with high pressure. But lower, the pressure goes off a lot asn is very weak. So needless to say, it was soooo nice to have a regular shower again...

I get changed, come back outside, and another person takes me to the cafe where I am served a plate of fresh fruit (VERY fresh), bread and an amazing tea that could become my favorite tea (next to true, Indian Masala chai). It was ginger black tea with palm sugar and some cinnamon. It was really, really nice. All in all, I'd rate the whole experience on par with the best massages I've ever had in my life!

So that's about it for now - tomorrow is a moon day so there is no yoga practice. Thus, the Ashtangis are keen to go out and have a nice dinner, so I'm gonna get ready for that very soon. I've still got about a week and a half left to spend in Ubud, and there's a number of things I want to do still. Saturday we may take our first excursion and drive somewhere north or east, like one of the volcanoe tours would be awesome! Even if I don't get to do everything I want, I know this will NOT be my last time in Bali, so I'm ok with putting it off until the next visit...

Meanwhile, you read through all that text - so you deserve some pictures! Here are some pics, ordered by: The villa where I stay, Ubud Town, a Bali Temple, and me eating something :-)

















Namaste and Love from Ubud, Bali, Indonesia :-)

In Bali... Still alive... Enjoying Life!

Just a quick update - yes, still in Bali, enjoying the days here. It's really hot and took some getting used to (coming from very cold Seoul), but overall having an amazing time. Meeting up with my girls from India has been wonderful - it's like we picked up right where we left off over a year ago...

My day consists of -- waking up at 7am, walking 5 minutes to the Yoga Shala to practice Mysore with Prem and Radha, getting a coconut (sometimes), walking back to my villa, having breakfast, possibly going into Ubud town for errands, shopping, eating, etc. But we've also taken liesurely days off just hanging by the pool, chatting, reading, enjoying ourselves...

I'm currently at a restaurant close by to my villa, just finished an amazing dinner, but about to leave soon. Hope that I can post pictures soon too, but it's difficult because the internet is slow it's just not that easy as it was in other cities. That and I seem to have less inclination, more to just chill and relax and do yoga...

So anyway - yes, all is well - loving every minute... Namaste :-)

Bali, Indonesia: Arrival & Ready to unplug...

Greetings from a warm and muggy Ubud, Bali, Indonesia! This post will be really short as I am tired of being on the computer and I want to disconnect for a while. Maybe I'll write a longer one when time permits...

So the flight from Seoul was easy enough - about 6 hours 45 minutes long, landing in Bali just before midnight. Going through Indonesian customs was easy too, although a lot more chaotic than Korea that's for sure. As soon as I step outside, the immediate thing you notice is the temperature - holy COW it's warm and humid, feels like summertime in Central Florida! Big, BIG difference from the bitter cold of Seoul, South Korea. I think I prefer this much more...

Anyway, I got in pretty late, and Katja & Sarah were asleep already but left a note with the reception that manages the villas I'm staying at - aww it was sooooo very sweet to be welcomed like that. And when I did get to see them it was amazing - it's like things haven't changed since India one year ago. We constantly laugh, smile, and then laugh some more. They are truly lovely ladies and great friends to have!

So it's been pretty quiet and laid back this morning / afternoon. We ate breakfast, we went to the yoga shala where we start practice with Prem and Radha tomorrow morning to pay the fees, discuss issues, etc. I was concerned that it would be a walk from our villa location, but seriously it's like 5 minutes away, could NOT have chosen a better location!

And here I am! Probably going to go for a swim in their pool soon, maybe read a little and relax. That's what I want to do now - relax, not worry about things, unplug for a while...

Namaste & Love from Bali :-)

Seoul, S. Korea Day 3: DMZ & New Friends

Hello again from Seoul, South Korea! Today was my last full day in the city, and I used it to head outside and take a tour to one of the more dangerous borders in the only divided country in the world - the De-Militarized Zone that separates North and South Korea. I had heard that tour companies regularly take tourists to this border, and sure enough, the Hilton Hotel concierge was happy to arrange it for me...

I work up rather early (again) around 3:30 or 4am. I keep doing this for some reason, I don't know why, jet lag seems to stick around lately. So I tried to go back to sleep and was successful until about 5:45, so I just got ready and headed to breakfast very early. Same free breakfast as before - consistent and reliable, a great thing about the Hilton chain :-) After breakfast I headed back to my room and got ready for the tour. As I was brushing my teeth, the telephone rang - it was the tour operator telling me to come down right away as the entire tour was waiting for me. What?? The concierge said be there at 8:10, my clock clearly said 8:00. Oh well, I hurried up and met her down in the lobby...

I don't recall her name - she is Korean but speaks a bit of broken English and it was difficult to make out sometimes. However she was really sweet and knowledgeable about the DMZ and its history. We chatted on our way to the bus holding the rest of the tour group, as apparently 15 other people signed up to go on this day. None were from my hotel, all were from other hotels, and this was just one of multiple stops to pick people up...

Anyway, I was the last one, and off we went to the border. The drive was about 45 minutes to an hour, since we ran into rush hour morning traffic. Not only that, but it was so cold outside that the windows were fogged and we had to keep wiping them with our jacket sleeve to see anything. But what you could see was kind of interesting - you can see a frozen river (forgot the name) that is protected from the highway by barbed wire and observation platforms (supposedly military personnel will watch the going-ons below but no one was in the platforms now, as it's open aired and probably too cold)...

Anyway, it turns out that most of the DMZ is turning into a tourist attraction, as the first stop was the Peace Bell. Here are pics:
























As you can see from the plaque, it was erected at the turn of the century as a monument for the desire of a unifed Korea once more along with lasting peace in the region. You are basically at one section of the DMZ border at this location, so when you look out from the platform you see more frozen river and mountains in the background. I think the actual DMZ is 2 kilometers in each direction (north and south) from the actual border, so it's a lot larger than I thought it would be. The white bridge that sits in the background is (I believe) called The Freedom Bridge. I don't remember all the specifics about the landmarks (mostly because it was rushed, I was cold, and trying to take it all in myself besides taking pictures).

After visiting the Peace Bell, we were on a strict schedule - in fact this would be the theme for the day, as our tour guide was very insistent about the times we must return to the bus and go onwards to the next attraction. Sometimes you had only 10-15 minutes, and that would be cut down more if you had to go to the bathroom. It was the most regulated tour that I've ever been on! LOL

So the next stop was actually a bonafide train station called Dorasan Station. Well, it WAS a train station - I think it was opened in an effort to connect the North and South (again at the turn of the millenium), as even President George W. Bush from the USA helped to christen it. You can see his signature on one of the blocks in the pictures below:











Hehehe yes I even got to have my picture taken with one of the South Korea militray guards :-)

Next we drove to one of the most interesting parts of our journey. I don't remember the actual name of the landmark, but basically we drove all the way up a mountain to a lookout point that overlooks a valley below, and you can clearly see the North Korean towns in the distance. Here are some pics:









An interesting part about this - here's where photography is regulated. In an effort to keep the peace and not strain already heightened tensions between the North and South, you are requested to take photographs from behind a yellow "photo line" at the request of North Korea. Basically, there's a wall in front of you that is strategically placed so that you cannot really see anything of substance above the wall - you'd have to pass the yellow line in order for the picture to have any meaning. I guess this is to prevent broadcasting of those images to the internet (or likewise sharing mechanism). I wasn't about to try anything (not that I would), mostly because there were armed South Korean guards who watch your every move! All of those pictures were taken behind the photo line, I assure you...

However, what you can do is walk up on your own and observe with your own eyes. It's really very interesting - you can pay 500 Korean Won and get some time on the binoculars which allow you to see into the towns. Yes I saw some North Koreans moving to and fro, doing their daily business. It looks like a complex of apartment buildings, but you hardly see anyone. I think the guide said most of the residents in this part of the country are farmers, growing soybeans and the like...

By this time, I started to become friends with a few people who were on the tour with me. As I said, there's about 15 total that left from the hotel, but once we started going into the more controlled areas, they combine you with other tours into different buses that are owned, operated and controlled by the South Korean government. So our tour group of 15 became almost 30 in a fully packed bus! However, our little section always stayed together...

Anyway, I started to connect with 2 Americans and 1 Austrailian whom himself actually went to University in America (North Carolina I believe). Adina, Hanna and Albert were really cool people, and eventually we found ourselves looking after one another, saving seats when we went somewhere, taking each other's pictures, etc. This is one of the best things about traveling - meeting really nice people like this :-)

So after the viewing, we hop on the bus and get to another interesting part of our day. As you may or may not know, much of the DMZ border is mountainous and rough terrain. There have, over the years, been a number of tunnels discovered by the Allies (South Korea, USA, Europe, etc.) within these mountains that are believed to have been dug by North Korea and created for the purpose of invasion and/or attack. I believe, to date, there are 4 known caves, but many more could still exist (just like there are still active land mines in the surrounding areas on the mountain so you have to be careful when you drive it). The proof, the say, is in the direction of the dynamite markings (in yellow) within the caves, showing that they are clearing going in the direction of South Korea...

So guess what? We get to go inside one of these caves! No, no, not all the way to North Korea! Just to a certain point. The 3rd cave to be exact. Tunnel number 3 has been blockaded 3 times before you actually get to the real border with North Korea, and you're only allowed to go to the first blockade. Absolutely no photography allowed, so alas - no pictures for you guys! But our group put on these yellow hard hats and walked down a VERY, VERY steep decline tunnel in order to get to the real tunnel. Though the slope was steep, the transit tunnel was new and built by South Korea, so it's no big deal to walk around. Once you get into the actual 3rd tunnel, however, now you get to the real stuff! It's damp, dripping with water, cold, and crowded with tour groups! It wasn't that high, and for most of the journey inwards I had to crouch as to not hit my head on the solid rock. Ahh now I see the purpose for the hard hats - without it I would have given myself a real headache, as I surely hit my head a number of times! A few passerbys laughed as they heard CLUNK!!! LOL

So you get all the way to the 1st blockade and basically, that's it - you can look through a small window to see the 2nd blockade a few hundred meters from where you are standing. Then, there's a 3rd blockade but you cannot see it. After that 3rd blockade, you are at the official border with North Korea. So you can see, we had plenty of distance between us!

Walking back was a hike! First through the caves, then up the steep, STEEP incline in the transit tunnel. Many people were so winded they stopped to take a rest (and the tunnel provides seating for you to rest if you need it). There's also this vehicle thing that runs on a track that can take you up, but none of us were gonna wimp out - we trekked the entire way! :-)

After that we had some souvinere time, where I bought a few things (not mentioning what :-) ), and 2 of our group went to have lunch and do an extended tour of something else (can't remember exactly what they were going to see). Myself and most of the others only did a half day, so we dropped them off, then we left to go back to Seoul, tired but satiated...

Once we got back into the city, the driver stopped at an amythst jewelry shop, which was located just next to a hotel where many of the other tour members were staying. So they got off and went back to their hotel, myself and Adina went to look inside for jewelry (everything was WAY too expensive though so we decided to pass). Then we hop back on the bus which takes us to Lotte Department store, and this was the final dropoff point for the bus...

The tour guide comes in with Adina and myself, and says we should all have lunch together (or at least that's what I think she was saying). Then, next thing I know, she wisks Adina off to go buy cosmetics in the store, and I'm standing there with another woman who was in our group, who then decides to leave anyway. So then it's just me! I go back to look for Adina to see if she and the tour guide are actually having lunch here, otherwise I would go back to my hotel!

Long story short, it ended up being just Adina and I having sushi in the restaurant within Lotte. It was really great - she is an amazing, intelligent and witty woman, and we shared some really great conversation! She is Chinese by decent but was raised in the U.S. (family currently lives in L.A.), while she is interning for school in Beijing, China. Here's a picture of her and I just before we parted ways:



So that's about it! I'm packing my stuff together for tomorrow, as I am transiting to Bali in the later afternoon! Not only that, but prior to the new group of friends and I are having lunch nearby, so it should be a great day!

Namaste and Love from Seoul, South Korea :-)