Hey ya'll! Just a quick note to say that I arrived safely back to Orlando yesterday evening. The flights were very long and difficult to get through, as my stomach was quite upset for most of the transit. Turns out that I have another bout of bacterial infection in my stomach, so I spent most of last night near the bathroom. I saw a doctor today though and have started my antibiotic regimen once more, so I expect things will shape up better over the next 24 hours...
All in all, amazing and life changing trip to India, as I knew it would be. So happy and so grateful for all of my experiences there...
Maybe I'll write more about it when I have a chance to recuperate. But for now, thanks for reading along and traveling with me! Stay tuned to see where in the world Jeff goes next!
Namaste & Love from Home, Orlando, FL USA :-D
Sunday, February 27, 2011
Friday, February 25, 2011
On my way Home...
In transit for the next day and a half (I think). Sitting in the Delhi airport now, found a place that does free internet! Internet is hard to come by in India!! Terminal 3 (the new international terminal) is georgeous and perhaps the most modern I've been to anywhere - such a stark contrast for the rest of India! :-)
So tired b/c it's 1am and my flight leaves at 3am, and add to that the upcoming time changes (India is 10 hours ahead of US EST). But I'm surviving...
Will write more thoughts later when I am coherent and at home :-)
Namaste :-)
So tired b/c it's 1am and my flight leaves at 3am, and add to that the upcoming time changes (India is 10 hours ahead of US EST). But I'm surviving...
Will write more thoughts later when I am coherent and at home :-)
Namaste :-)
Thursday, February 24, 2011
The Universe Mocks Me - My Unexpectedly Fantastic Day in Agra (I forgot to post this ealier)
I just realized I missed uploading a post for my time spent in Agra. As you recall Internet access has been a challenge at times during my travels in the North of India, so I usually wrote a blog entry locally on my computer and the uploaded when I had the chance...
This post was written while in Agra - I won't repost the pictures as I've already done that part in other blog entries. But you can see the stories here... Namaste :-)
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Greetings to all from Agra, Uttar Pradesh, India! I'm writing this entry without internet access, so I'm not sure when I'll be able to post it. I'm in hotel, which apparently doesn't have wifi or any in room internet. You can use their outdated computer downstairs for 60 Rupees an hour if you want, but that's it. So I will wait for the right moment to post this...
If you read my previous entry from Delhi, you'll observe that I had a love hate relationship with my experiences in the city. Loved my time spent with Arjun and the quiet parts of the city - absolutely hated the utter chaos that, evidently, overwhelmed me sometimes. But today was PACKED full of sights and adventure - exactly the opposite of what I was expecting Agra to be. Let me explain my day...
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Train ride to Agra
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So as you read yesterday, I had a hell of a time finding the International Tourist Office and getting the train ticket to Agra. But eventually I did, of course, and the train I was booked on left at 7:10am. Given that the Hilton Hotel is in an area of Delhi known as Janakpuri (way, way west of the city center), the concierge expected my journey to the train station to be around 1 hour (given traffic, even at 5:15 in the morning!). He was right - it took about 1 hour door to door. I gotta say, the Hilton bent over backwards for me this morning - they helped me in a consistent, professional manner with almost every aspect of all the crap i was dealing with - getting the room bill straightened out (I had charged quite a bit of stuff to the room, including a courier shipment back home), helping me identify the platform I need to go to in the train station to make my life easier once I get there, etc. I loved my stay at that hotel - expensive but TOTALLY money well spent!
So the Hilton hired a taxi for me (and he was even metered! I have YET to experience that in India, much less any of my Asia travels) and he arrived around 5:15 am to pick me up. I decided to convert my backpack from it's former duffel bag version that I carried with my hand to a true backpack, and it's much more helpful when doing train travel. That was the first time I used it in that fashion. The taxi driver was a kind Muslim man who spoke VERY little English (broken at that) but tried to engage conversation with me anyway, pointing out the Diplomatic row of Embassies in Delhi from all countries of the world (since Delhi is the capital and the political center of India, for the most part). With the exception of the fabulous Delhi Metro system (which I figured out quickly), I had zero directional sense for all other parts of Delhi for the whole time I was there, so I had no idea how we got to the train station...
Anyway, the driver let me out, helped me assemble my gear (including hoisting my backpack onto my shoulders), I paid him, we did Namaste hands (of course, the Hilton hired him, he was probably instructed to do so!!) and I was off into the station. It was around 6:00 am and I found it MUCH easier to navigate than the gigormous New Delhi Train Station. For those not in the know, Delhi has 3 main train stations (according to Lonely Planet): New Delhi Train Station, Old Delhi Train Station, and Nizamuddin. Don't ask me to tell you the difference between them I have no idea - all I know is my ticket said Nizamuddin, so that's where I was (I think it's smaller than New Delhi Train Station)...
The Hilton told me Platform # 5 would be my departing train, I found the platform, but no train at the time (I was WAY early, earlier than the Hilton concierge told me I would be, but glad to have some buffer anyway). There were a lot of people scattered around the floor of the platform - many sleeping under blankets, as it was pretty cold that morning (maybe even upper 40's for the low??) I chose an area of the platform and parked myself on a bench and chilled. The announcements of the train arrivals, departures, and delays were the same as in New Delhi - they use an MS Windows "tada" chime to separate the messages, I found that so hilarious! I took a video of it, but was cautious of taking pictures, as I was still in unfamiliar territory. Also, I don't like to take pictures of people in those circumstances - would have to ask permission first...
So I waited for a while and eventually the train came into the station. My ticket said Class "2S" which is 2nd Class Sleeper. Sleeper doesn't mean you necessarily sleep on the train (would be hard to do that on THIS train anyway) but instead refers to the orientation of the seats. They are basically benches (cushioned) where 3 people sit to a bench. If no one else was occupying the bench, I guess you could technically sleep on it, but this train was jammed packed. I had no idea what to expect - there was no A/C in this class (not that you would need it, it was cold enough already, but the train has a bunch of fans stuck to the ceiling). Again, no pictures, not the right environment, I felt, to take pictures in. I had trouble locating my train car (D5) but then figured out that the identifier is on the car but juts outwards and wasn't very visible in the dim lighting conditions of the station. And there is no organization to the cars in the train - why would there be anyway, this is India, such things do not exist!! Locomotive, Baggage car, Sleeper, Sleeper, Chair A/C, Chair, Sleeper, Sleeper, Chair A/C, etc...
I found my car, went inside, and found the seat number. Apparently, the seat was already occupied by a small little girl and the rest of her family beside her. I think the family all booked together (there were like 7 of them), so they probably wanted to sit together. No worries, I didn't say anything, I just took the next available seat across the way. So I sat there for a while as people slowly meandered onto the train. At first it was virtually empty, but later became so packed that people were standing during the entire journey. They don't seem to be very strict about the standing rules on Indian Railways - Lots of people standing, lots of people jumping up and taking other seats, etc. No organization. I stayed put - I was not moving until I absolutely had to go to the bathroom (which I later did, more later)...
We were delayed like 30 minutes before we finally left. And only as the train starts to depart the station, even more people realize it, and they run for it. They run and grab onto the train as it's moving. Quite comical. Moreover, they open the exit doors during travel and sometimes hang out there, where someone could easily just fall out. And the ticket taking guys don't come around until 1 hour or so into the 3 hour journey, and even THEN there is no organization. Yet, this system of transportation moves millions and millions of people every single day in this vast country, so who am I to tell them what does or does not work?
I basically said almost nothing during the entire journey, as the people sitting in my immediate area clearly spoke no English (or preferred not to for fear that they won't know the right word, something I've experienced already in Malaysia). Of course, the chai wallahs - how could I forget? Love those guys - they walk up and down the aisles screaming "CHAI CHAI CHAIYA CHAI CHAI" - LOL!! I didn't partake, but was amused none the less. Later they started selling food (samosas, Tomato Soup in a can, some other kind of sandwich that I couldn't identify, Water, Mango Juice, Toys, Key Chains, novelties that flash up and light themselves, newspapers, etc. Basically anything...
And yes - there were beggars. In fact, early on the trip I was tired so I tried to shut my eyes to rest. I actually started to fall deeper into sleep when some beggar woman hits my leg with her hand. I'm startled and I wake up - she's looking at me, she literally SHOVES her hand into my face and barks "MONEY!" HA! Like THAT would work, lady! I don't care if you DO have a baby in your arm. I say "No" and shake my head. Then she goes "YES!" Then I go "NO!" and shake my head again, looking away towards the dirty, smelly floor. She laughs a little, then slaps me on the shoulder with her hand and says something I can't remember, maybe it was like "Ha Ok no Money no GIRLFRIEND for you!!!" Everyone around me started laughing - of course I was the ONLY white guy in the entire car, so I did draw attention to myself anyway. Besides homeless women asking for money, there was this family of a mother and 2 children who tried to perform for us during the travel. The kid was hilarious - maybe 5 years old, just went around grabbing the back of his head and his crotch and thrusting his hips upwards, as if he was Michael Jackson or something. He just keeps doing it over and over again, faster and faster, saying something in Hindi (I think). Then, next thing you know, he does a drop back into a full backbend and then kicks his legs up over his head. The 5 year old gymnast who wears a white glove. What happens after the performance? Take a guess.... Yes you're right, he wants money. No, I don't want to break my 50 Rupee note, sorry kid...
So the rest of the journey went on like that. People talk REALLY loudly on the train all the time, but somehow I was able to tune them out for a while and get at least SOME sleep. The train made a couple of stops but I realized that I had to find a way to identify the particular station we were currently at. There was no announcement or anything - that would make logical sense, and we can't have that in India! No, it's as my friend Arjun from Delhi told me about train travel - the system is geared around individuals who live and use the train system frequently, so they automatically know the name, number, arriving platform, order of stops, everything. Thus, since they know it, no bother to announce it (not that I would understand it anyway, as the announcements in English were hard to understand, minus the pre-programmed computer generated ones). I finally figured out that the train station name is located on posts throughout the station, but you have to look fast. The English portion is written WAY at the top of the sign and is not easy to pick up (initially) from a moving train. I thought most people would get off at the Agra Cantt stop, but not true - many got off on the stop prior to or remained as I left...
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Arrival in Agra
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So I grab my bags, assemble myself, and realize that even though not ALL the people are getting off at this stop, there are still a LOT of people getting on and others who want to get on for the first time. Great - here comes the bum rush, just like on the Delhi Metro, and me with all my backpack gear, etc. An observation on this - people in India have no sense of courtesy when it comes to allowing people to enter or exit. Everyone literally pushes as much and as hard as they can - they can't wait, they HAVE to get going, they will run you over. At least in London they wouldn't knock you down - in India, I think they would (at least it feels that way)...
Somehow, I make it out among a THRONG of screaming people. Just as I expected (and read in Lonely Planet) touts spotted me immediately and tried to "help" me book a taxi or a reservation to a hotel or whisk me away to see the Taj Mahal. Dodging them, I found the prepaid taxi center. The taxi drivers were vicious vultures competing with one another for my fare, they all followed me up to the counter and tried to shove their way to the ticket guy behind the counter and say that I was with them. So crazy! I had my game face on again - that was what drained me in Delhi, I felt like I had to have my game face on 24/7, minus the times spent with Arjun and Marco...
I paid, and walked away, and this nice, middle aged man somehow convinced me to follow him into his cab. It was a van, actually, a Chevy van at that. I get in and we start chatting about how crazy the station is, etc. His name is Rama and I will get to know much more of him over the entire day - and actually, to tell you the truth, Rama MADE my day in Agra such a fantastic one!
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Arrival at hotel and the Taj Mahal
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So Rama takes me to the hotel, I check in, I drop my stuff off in my room, and then he advised me to get going quick so I would have time to see all that I wanted to see in Agra. He would be my driver NOT my guide, he was very clear on that - he was not a guide, he worked for the Indian government and city of Agra as a tourist driver. It's true, his vehicle said "Tourist Vehicle" on it (well i assumed it to be true). The government rate is 750 Rupees for the driver to take you around all day, but he would do it for 650 Rupees. So that means, take me to all the sights, explain to me the history behind all the sites and what things mean BEFORE I went out into them and saw them myself while he stayed behind and waited for me. Interesting. Inside me, something said "Do it - this is the guy for you". "Ok it's a deal - let's go see the Taj"...
So mind you, it was raining in Agra all morning (a cold rain that we still felt in Delhi and during the train ride over). But by now (11am-ish) the clouds had started to break for sunshine, and I thought "What perfect timing for me to see this!" Indeed, it was. Rama drove me to the West Gate of the Taj and gave me a few words of warning:
1) Do not believe people who tell you that a guide is included in your Taj Admission price - it isn't, they are ripping you off for 675 Rupees.
2) Watch out for the monkeys and don't feed them - they can be vicious and are everywhere during the walk to the entrance.
3) You don't need a rickshaw or anything to get to the ticketing booth - it's a 5 minute walk, you go straight through, curve to the right with the road, and then turn left. (We went over this several times before I exited).
4) The only things allowed into the Taj Complex are yourself, your camera, your mobile (switched off), your money, keys, etc. No other electronics, no liquids, no food, nothing. Almost like getting on an airplane now a days, but you can see why - the Taj Mahal would be a perfect place to cause some real havoc to a lot of people all at once, it's so high profile...
I made a quick decision that I would trust Rama with my bag (which wasn't even unpacked from the trip so it had many (not all) of my valuables in it). I realized this only later as I was touring the Taj, but somehow, I felt this trust with Rama - don't know why, it was different with him. I consciously said to myself, over and over, "Don't worry, nothing will happen, it's all ok, don't let the paranoia voice inside your head tell you differently, I have a gut feeling about this and I am going to trust it and give away my anxieties." This is a small practice for a general challenge that I have in life - getting anxious about things that (at the point in time) I cannot control, and having to give complete and utter trust and faith to God / The Universe that I will be taken care of...
Besides, I felt as if I needed to write everything down, Rama was so specific in many of his instructions. He did not go in with me, as no vehicles are allowed within a certain radius of the Taj to help control pollution, but we did exchange cell phone numbers (as I do have an Indian SIM Card now) so I would call him when I am through. So off I go and I don't stop for any of the touts that surely do come up to me. They shove things in my face, they come WITH me to the ticketing office and then try to convince me that the guide is included in the price (word for word as Rama said). I brisk past them and shake my hand in front of them to say "No No, don't want". Worked like a charm - they backed off eventually because I totally ignore them...
The Taj Mahal - it is widely considered to be the most beautiful building in the world. It does not fail to impress and live up to that standard, as it is every bit magnificent as you heard it to be. It's bigger that you thought it was. It is more ornate than you thought it was. The complex is VAST!!! So many buildings make up the complex, but the recognizable one is the Tomb itself. There is also a Mosque (active one, prayer on Fridays at least, maybe more frequently). I drained my camera battery taking so many pictures today of all the sights, but why not? I'm at the freggin TAJ MAHAL!! Of course I'm going to just snap away! As such, I had to be very selective in the photos that I chose here for you:
-------Pictures skipped - see earlier blog entry(s)-------
You are not allowed to take pictures inside the mausoleum itself (the tomb), as it is a sacred space, but kept really dark inside anyway, so nothing would turn out. Since there were SO many people there (Western, Asian, Indian, EVERYONE), of course many broke the rules and took pictures anyway, but I chose to be respectful and did not. I did meet a lot of Americans today - was nice to reconnect with the familiar accent, I can pick them out immediately now! LOL!!
I spent about 2 hours inside the complex, picture taking, walking around, etc. After that, I started to feel a bit hungry and decided to leave and summon Rama. Along the way, I realized they were selling Pastries filled with spiced potatoes (larger than the Samosas I've had to date, somehow they were flaky like a French Pastry). SCORE!!!! LOVE that food! I got 3 and devoured them, they were so good...
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Agra Fort
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Met back with Rama and, thankfully, all my stuff was in good standing. I knew the Universe would come through for me, I consciously worked on that faith and it worked back for me. Moreover, I trusted my instincts that I could trust this guy. I guess it was a combination of faith and gut feelings...
Anyway, the next stop was Agra Fort, the other big attraction in Agra. Along the way Rama and I chatted about the Fort, about Agra (he grew up here and has lived here his whole life) and about tourists who come to Agra. He told me a bunch of history behind the Taj and the Fort, but I couldn't retain it all and I was already on sensory overload from the Taj. He parked in a small parking lot nearby the Fort and warned me again about what I will encounter. Somehow, the Fort seemed to require even more caution, as he says pickpockets are frequent there (when they stop you to talk to you, if you stop moving, others gather around you and grab your stuff and run). Just be careful. It's like Rama was looking out for me, I was so charmed! But I got through with no problem when I followed his specific instructions - head out to the street that way, turn left, go straight through and the ticket booth is on your left. Be wary of others who watch which pocket you stick your hand into to get the money for paying your ticket. Geese! Should I carry a gun with me?? LOL :-)
I get inside and go through security. A word about security anywhere in India - the Delhi Metro, the Airport, the Taj / Fort, the train station, etc. It's a joke. They don't control it well at ALL - people constantly walk through the "Exit Only" lane completely bypassing all the security, people push and shove through the metal detectors so they can get scanned next and get ON with it! But they frisk everyone - and they aren't shy, they WILL grab your junk! LOL - happened to me a few times actually. Can't say what they do for the ladies because all ladies queues are separate from the gentlemen queues - always, in all cases in India, in all locations / terminals / transit hubs / monuments. I can't remember seeing a case where that wasn't true. There is always a protective wall around the actual ladies' security check...
So I get into Agra Fort and find it's pretty vast too - it sits on the same side of the river as the Taj but down aways, and curves upward with the river. The place is like a maze - it's fun to go through because there are so many twists, turns, unexpected hiding places, etc. I felt like a kid in a playground! Again, took SOOO many pictures, but here are a few selections:
-------Pictures skipped - see earlier blog entry(s)-------
I spent about 2 hours there as well - admiring the scenery and enjoying the breeze from the river (was really lovely, even at the back of the Taj itself). By now my camera battery was starting to drain so I tried to conserve more of my picture and video taking at this point. When I decided to leave and go find Rama, I wanted to see what he was doing when I DIDN'T call him on the cell phone but just showed up at his car. I found there were 3 - 4 other guys in his car and it looks like they were all playing poker (I saw cards being delt). They realized I was there, and Rama said something to them from behind the glass, and they all immediately vacated. LOL! Nice. Then one of them said "Sorry sir, sorry..." and did Namaste Hands to me. LOL!!!! Love the Namaste Hands in India where no one else does it but it happens to me all the time :-)...
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Craftsmanship in Agra
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so in the beginning I told Rama that I would accept his offer on the condition that he DOESN'T take me to any shops. Somehow this was forgotten, but actually, I enjoyed the side trips and (at the end of the day) felt good about giving him the extra commission for at least taking me to see the shops. They weren't ordinary shops anyway - Rama says they are government run (whatever that means, less commercial?) and will demonstrate to you how the industries of Agra thrive, so you get a fuller picture of life in the city (not just see the Taj and leave). Hmmm he already figured me out - he's trying to appeal to my intellectual side and tell me that I will be educated on this stuff with no pressure to buy. Basically Agra is known for the sights (Taj, Fort, etc.) and 3 main industries: Carving / Gem Setting, Weaving Rugs and jewelry...
To his credit, he was 66% right. Of the 3 shops we visited throughout the day, each one described a different industry, and only one of them started to get on my nerves about me buying something from them. The others were happy to just discuss the artistry, which I found intriguing when relating it to what I had seen in the Taj. Rama was calculated about when he showed me which shops, too (I realize that now) - first the Taj, then Fort, then Carving / Gem Setting (so I can see the SAME artistry that made those monuments being done right in front of my eyes). It's true, the artisans are generational and have generations going back 500 years or more - the respective craft is handed down in the family. It was fascinating to see how they work - primitive tools only, not machinery - everything done from scratch, all by hand. Even the threads that make the rugs and portraits - the threads themselves are created from scratch. I was impressed...
Soooo, unexpected to me, the Weaving shop was very interesting and I came across something that I really liked. Though beautiful and I appreciate the work that goes into them, I have no need for a giant rug in my life. Not even a small little mat made of the same material. Wait - do I? OMG I just saw this amazing little mat that I could use as a meditation mat (I would like to start a more consistent meditation practice, but have yet to be serious about it). It was black background with a bunch of surrounding Om symbols and Ganesh in the middle. I fell in love with it but played it cool, as I wanted to see what kind of price I could get. Turns out - the smallest size they have would fit my needs perfectly. 7,000 Rupees (like $160 USD) for a made from scratch, hand woven Ganesh / Om Meditation Rug. It wasn't very big, and the guy tried to up-sell me on the larger size, but I wanted the small one - that spoke to me, so I got it. 7,000 INR even includes full UPS-delivered shipping to my door in the USA so no need to lug it around with me (it wasn't even made yet, they have to create it). YES!!!
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Baby Taj (a.k.a. Itmiad ud daulah tomb)
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I skipped order a bit in describing the Agra Craftsmen. It was Taj, Fort, Carving / Gem Setting, Weaving, and THEN the Baby Taj. Did you know about this building? It's MUCH, much smaller than the Taj Mahal and doesn't carry the star power, but it is a really nice place. I found it so peaceful there - it's further south down the river. I won't write about it's history here - you can look that up yourself, but here are some of my pictures:
-------Pictures skipped - see earlier blog entry(s)-------
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Dinner with Rama
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At this point I'm beat and want to eat something and head back to the hotel to chill. Rama suggests a restaurant that he knows and is off the beaten tourist path. I forget the name now - M Something? Anyway, it's on the first floor of a hotel and they serve continental cuisine. Rama is so funny, somehow in our conversation he kept thinking I didn't know how food is served in a restaurant. "You go, yeah? Inside. Ok. Seet Down. They bring Menoo. Menoo has MANY Dings, MANY Food. You get as you like. You tell Waiter. He writes down. You wait. He brings. You eat!" I just smiled at him and I'm like "Thanks very much for explaining that, it does make sense now." But at this point I already like him so it's endearing to me...
We go, we seet down, and menoo is brought. He sits with me - wow is he going to have dinner with me?? Ok, let's roll then. After ordering, we talk about our lives - he has 2 kids, one 10 one 12 and his life revolves around them. I think he's a pretty devout Hindu (with a name like Rama, right? :-)) as he tells me something about how he follows certain eating patterns or some kind of pattern according to the day of the week. I can't remember honestly, I didn't really follow it and just kept nodding my head. Thursday is Guru day, I remember that. Tuesday and Thursdays must be vegetarian (I think). Tuesday is Hanuman day. There's a Shiva day thrown in there somewhere, don't remember where. Sunday is a free day though. Today was Tuesday, so it was Hanuman day...
Rama didn't eat with me though - as soon as the food arrived he went outside to smoke. Ok, no worries then. But holy SHIT the food was fantastic! It has to rank up there with some of the BEST Indian cuisine I have ever had. I had this Kashmiri Naan made with Almonds, Pineapples, and something else fruity that was outstanding. And to that, you add this Cashew based gravy with Paneer, Black Pepper and other Indian Spices. OMG I was devouring it - not only because I was hungry but because it was so delicious! I forgot to take a picture of it like normally do because I was too busy trying to figure how to shove the entire plate into my mouth... :-)
Get back in the car - Rama I'm ready to go "Home" to my hotel! What? Another shop (this is number 3 at this point, for the full 3). Ok ok, I'll play along and let you get your commission. Besides, he told me that the only profit he makes is from Tip from the service, the rest goes to pay the government (remember the car is not his, it's the government's, etc. etc.) But I had this image of his family waiting for him at the dinner table back home (he said he always eats dinner with his family, that's why he didn't eat with me) and my softy side caved in. I went to the jewelry shop, feigned interest for a bit, didn't buy anything, and then left. FINALLY drove me back to my hotel, and I gave him a good tip to boot. So I'd say he did pretty well, but he also worked for it by helping me out and giving me a place to trust someone...
The trust thing was especially important given my state of mind yesterday in Delhi. I didn't trust anyone or anything and I was prepared for the worst in Agra - as it is THE most touristy place in India (arguably). I was preparing to be accosted and have to deal with everything on my own. But, as the title to the blog entry says, The Universe Mocks Me - it makes me go through all that emotional shit in Delhi (I didn't sleep but 1 hour last night I was up and so worried about Agra and train travel) but then sends me a small token of hope through Rama who (unbeknown to him) helped ease my nerves...
So I'm grateful once more - grateful for the great day I had in Agra and sending out intentions for many more throughout my journey in India. Only 2 more locations to go! Rishikesh tomorrow evening, and then Amritsar next week!
Namaste and Love from Agra, India :-)
This post was written while in Agra - I won't repost the pictures as I've already done that part in other blog entries. But you can see the stories here... Namaste :-)
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Greetings to all from Agra, Uttar Pradesh, India! I'm writing this entry without internet access, so I'm not sure when I'll be able to post it. I'm in hotel, which apparently doesn't have wifi or any in room internet. You can use their outdated computer downstairs for 60 Rupees an hour if you want, but that's it. So I will wait for the right moment to post this...
If you read my previous entry from Delhi, you'll observe that I had a love hate relationship with my experiences in the city. Loved my time spent with Arjun and the quiet parts of the city - absolutely hated the utter chaos that, evidently, overwhelmed me sometimes. But today was PACKED full of sights and adventure - exactly the opposite of what I was expecting Agra to be. Let me explain my day...
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Train ride to Agra
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So as you read yesterday, I had a hell of a time finding the International Tourist Office and getting the train ticket to Agra. But eventually I did, of course, and the train I was booked on left at 7:10am. Given that the Hilton Hotel is in an area of Delhi known as Janakpuri (way, way west of the city center), the concierge expected my journey to the train station to be around 1 hour (given traffic, even at 5:15 in the morning!). He was right - it took about 1 hour door to door. I gotta say, the Hilton bent over backwards for me this morning - they helped me in a consistent, professional manner with almost every aspect of all the crap i was dealing with - getting the room bill straightened out (I had charged quite a bit of stuff to the room, including a courier shipment back home), helping me identify the platform I need to go to in the train station to make my life easier once I get there, etc. I loved my stay at that hotel - expensive but TOTALLY money well spent!
So the Hilton hired a taxi for me (and he was even metered! I have YET to experience that in India, much less any of my Asia travels) and he arrived around 5:15 am to pick me up. I decided to convert my backpack from it's former duffel bag version that I carried with my hand to a true backpack, and it's much more helpful when doing train travel. That was the first time I used it in that fashion. The taxi driver was a kind Muslim man who spoke VERY little English (broken at that) but tried to engage conversation with me anyway, pointing out the Diplomatic row of Embassies in Delhi from all countries of the world (since Delhi is the capital and the political center of India, for the most part). With the exception of the fabulous Delhi Metro system (which I figured out quickly), I had zero directional sense for all other parts of Delhi for the whole time I was there, so I had no idea how we got to the train station...
Anyway, the driver let me out, helped me assemble my gear (including hoisting my backpack onto my shoulders), I paid him, we did Namaste hands (of course, the Hilton hired him, he was probably instructed to do so!!) and I was off into the station. It was around 6:00 am and I found it MUCH easier to navigate than the gigormous New Delhi Train Station. For those not in the know, Delhi has 3 main train stations (according to Lonely Planet): New Delhi Train Station, Old Delhi Train Station, and Nizamuddin. Don't ask me to tell you the difference between them I have no idea - all I know is my ticket said Nizamuddin, so that's where I was (I think it's smaller than New Delhi Train Station)...
The Hilton told me Platform # 5 would be my departing train, I found the platform, but no train at the time (I was WAY early, earlier than the Hilton concierge told me I would be, but glad to have some buffer anyway). There were a lot of people scattered around the floor of the platform - many sleeping under blankets, as it was pretty cold that morning (maybe even upper 40's for the low??) I chose an area of the platform and parked myself on a bench and chilled. The announcements of the train arrivals, departures, and delays were the same as in New Delhi - they use an MS Windows "tada" chime to separate the messages, I found that so hilarious! I took a video of it, but was cautious of taking pictures, as I was still in unfamiliar territory. Also, I don't like to take pictures of people in those circumstances - would have to ask permission first...
So I waited for a while and eventually the train came into the station. My ticket said Class "2S" which is 2nd Class Sleeper. Sleeper doesn't mean you necessarily sleep on the train (would be hard to do that on THIS train anyway) but instead refers to the orientation of the seats. They are basically benches (cushioned) where 3 people sit to a bench. If no one else was occupying the bench, I guess you could technically sleep on it, but this train was jammed packed. I had no idea what to expect - there was no A/C in this class (not that you would need it, it was cold enough already, but the train has a bunch of fans stuck to the ceiling). Again, no pictures, not the right environment, I felt, to take pictures in. I had trouble locating my train car (D5) but then figured out that the identifier is on the car but juts outwards and wasn't very visible in the dim lighting conditions of the station. And there is no organization to the cars in the train - why would there be anyway, this is India, such things do not exist!! Locomotive, Baggage car, Sleeper, Sleeper, Chair A/C, Chair, Sleeper, Sleeper, Chair A/C, etc...
I found my car, went inside, and found the seat number. Apparently, the seat was already occupied by a small little girl and the rest of her family beside her. I think the family all booked together (there were like 7 of them), so they probably wanted to sit together. No worries, I didn't say anything, I just took the next available seat across the way. So I sat there for a while as people slowly meandered onto the train. At first it was virtually empty, but later became so packed that people were standing during the entire journey. They don't seem to be very strict about the standing rules on Indian Railways - Lots of people standing, lots of people jumping up and taking other seats, etc. No organization. I stayed put - I was not moving until I absolutely had to go to the bathroom (which I later did, more later)...
We were delayed like 30 minutes before we finally left. And only as the train starts to depart the station, even more people realize it, and they run for it. They run and grab onto the train as it's moving. Quite comical. Moreover, they open the exit doors during travel and sometimes hang out there, where someone could easily just fall out. And the ticket taking guys don't come around until 1 hour or so into the 3 hour journey, and even THEN there is no organization. Yet, this system of transportation moves millions and millions of people every single day in this vast country, so who am I to tell them what does or does not work?
I basically said almost nothing during the entire journey, as the people sitting in my immediate area clearly spoke no English (or preferred not to for fear that they won't know the right word, something I've experienced already in Malaysia). Of course, the chai wallahs - how could I forget? Love those guys - they walk up and down the aisles screaming "CHAI CHAI CHAIYA CHAI CHAI" - LOL!! I didn't partake, but was amused none the less. Later they started selling food (samosas, Tomato Soup in a can, some other kind of sandwich that I couldn't identify, Water, Mango Juice, Toys, Key Chains, novelties that flash up and light themselves, newspapers, etc. Basically anything...
And yes - there were beggars. In fact, early on the trip I was tired so I tried to shut my eyes to rest. I actually started to fall deeper into sleep when some beggar woman hits my leg with her hand. I'm startled and I wake up - she's looking at me, she literally SHOVES her hand into my face and barks "MONEY!" HA! Like THAT would work, lady! I don't care if you DO have a baby in your arm. I say "No" and shake my head. Then she goes "YES!" Then I go "NO!" and shake my head again, looking away towards the dirty, smelly floor. She laughs a little, then slaps me on the shoulder with her hand and says something I can't remember, maybe it was like "Ha Ok no Money no GIRLFRIEND for you!!!" Everyone around me started laughing - of course I was the ONLY white guy in the entire car, so I did draw attention to myself anyway. Besides homeless women asking for money, there was this family of a mother and 2 children who tried to perform for us during the travel. The kid was hilarious - maybe 5 years old, just went around grabbing the back of his head and his crotch and thrusting his hips upwards, as if he was Michael Jackson or something. He just keeps doing it over and over again, faster and faster, saying something in Hindi (I think). Then, next thing you know, he does a drop back into a full backbend and then kicks his legs up over his head. The 5 year old gymnast who wears a white glove. What happens after the performance? Take a guess.... Yes you're right, he wants money. No, I don't want to break my 50 Rupee note, sorry kid...
So the rest of the journey went on like that. People talk REALLY loudly on the train all the time, but somehow I was able to tune them out for a while and get at least SOME sleep. The train made a couple of stops but I realized that I had to find a way to identify the particular station we were currently at. There was no announcement or anything - that would make logical sense, and we can't have that in India! No, it's as my friend Arjun from Delhi told me about train travel - the system is geared around individuals who live and use the train system frequently, so they automatically know the name, number, arriving platform, order of stops, everything. Thus, since they know it, no bother to announce it (not that I would understand it anyway, as the announcements in English were hard to understand, minus the pre-programmed computer generated ones). I finally figured out that the train station name is located on posts throughout the station, but you have to look fast. The English portion is written WAY at the top of the sign and is not easy to pick up (initially) from a moving train. I thought most people would get off at the Agra Cantt stop, but not true - many got off on the stop prior to or remained as I left...
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Arrival in Agra
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So I grab my bags, assemble myself, and realize that even though not ALL the people are getting off at this stop, there are still a LOT of people getting on and others who want to get on for the first time. Great - here comes the bum rush, just like on the Delhi Metro, and me with all my backpack gear, etc. An observation on this - people in India have no sense of courtesy when it comes to allowing people to enter or exit. Everyone literally pushes as much and as hard as they can - they can't wait, they HAVE to get going, they will run you over. At least in London they wouldn't knock you down - in India, I think they would (at least it feels that way)...
Somehow, I make it out among a THRONG of screaming people. Just as I expected (and read in Lonely Planet) touts spotted me immediately and tried to "help" me book a taxi or a reservation to a hotel or whisk me away to see the Taj Mahal. Dodging them, I found the prepaid taxi center. The taxi drivers were vicious vultures competing with one another for my fare, they all followed me up to the counter and tried to shove their way to the ticket guy behind the counter and say that I was with them. So crazy! I had my game face on again - that was what drained me in Delhi, I felt like I had to have my game face on 24/7, minus the times spent with Arjun and Marco...
I paid, and walked away, and this nice, middle aged man somehow convinced me to follow him into his cab. It was a van, actually, a Chevy van at that. I get in and we start chatting about how crazy the station is, etc. His name is Rama and I will get to know much more of him over the entire day - and actually, to tell you the truth, Rama MADE my day in Agra such a fantastic one!
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Arrival at hotel and the Taj Mahal
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So Rama takes me to the hotel, I check in, I drop my stuff off in my room, and then he advised me to get going quick so I would have time to see all that I wanted to see in Agra. He would be my driver NOT my guide, he was very clear on that - he was not a guide, he worked for the Indian government and city of Agra as a tourist driver. It's true, his vehicle said "Tourist Vehicle" on it (well i assumed it to be true). The government rate is 750 Rupees for the driver to take you around all day, but he would do it for 650 Rupees. So that means, take me to all the sights, explain to me the history behind all the sites and what things mean BEFORE I went out into them and saw them myself while he stayed behind and waited for me. Interesting. Inside me, something said "Do it - this is the guy for you". "Ok it's a deal - let's go see the Taj"...
So mind you, it was raining in Agra all morning (a cold rain that we still felt in Delhi and during the train ride over). But by now (11am-ish) the clouds had started to break for sunshine, and I thought "What perfect timing for me to see this!" Indeed, it was. Rama drove me to the West Gate of the Taj and gave me a few words of warning:
1) Do not believe people who tell you that a guide is included in your Taj Admission price - it isn't, they are ripping you off for 675 Rupees.
2) Watch out for the monkeys and don't feed them - they can be vicious and are everywhere during the walk to the entrance.
3) You don't need a rickshaw or anything to get to the ticketing booth - it's a 5 minute walk, you go straight through, curve to the right with the road, and then turn left. (We went over this several times before I exited).
4) The only things allowed into the Taj Complex are yourself, your camera, your mobile (switched off), your money, keys, etc. No other electronics, no liquids, no food, nothing. Almost like getting on an airplane now a days, but you can see why - the Taj Mahal would be a perfect place to cause some real havoc to a lot of people all at once, it's so high profile...
I made a quick decision that I would trust Rama with my bag (which wasn't even unpacked from the trip so it had many (not all) of my valuables in it). I realized this only later as I was touring the Taj, but somehow, I felt this trust with Rama - don't know why, it was different with him. I consciously said to myself, over and over, "Don't worry, nothing will happen, it's all ok, don't let the paranoia voice inside your head tell you differently, I have a gut feeling about this and I am going to trust it and give away my anxieties." This is a small practice for a general challenge that I have in life - getting anxious about things that (at the point in time) I cannot control, and having to give complete and utter trust and faith to God / The Universe that I will be taken care of...
Besides, I felt as if I needed to write everything down, Rama was so specific in many of his instructions. He did not go in with me, as no vehicles are allowed within a certain radius of the Taj to help control pollution, but we did exchange cell phone numbers (as I do have an Indian SIM Card now) so I would call him when I am through. So off I go and I don't stop for any of the touts that surely do come up to me. They shove things in my face, they come WITH me to the ticketing office and then try to convince me that the guide is included in the price (word for word as Rama said). I brisk past them and shake my hand in front of them to say "No No, don't want". Worked like a charm - they backed off eventually because I totally ignore them...
The Taj Mahal - it is widely considered to be the most beautiful building in the world. It does not fail to impress and live up to that standard, as it is every bit magnificent as you heard it to be. It's bigger that you thought it was. It is more ornate than you thought it was. The complex is VAST!!! So many buildings make up the complex, but the recognizable one is the Tomb itself. There is also a Mosque (active one, prayer on Fridays at least, maybe more frequently). I drained my camera battery taking so many pictures today of all the sights, but why not? I'm at the freggin TAJ MAHAL!! Of course I'm going to just snap away! As such, I had to be very selective in the photos that I chose here for you:
-------Pictures skipped - see earlier blog entry(s)-------
You are not allowed to take pictures inside the mausoleum itself (the tomb), as it is a sacred space, but kept really dark inside anyway, so nothing would turn out. Since there were SO many people there (Western, Asian, Indian, EVERYONE), of course many broke the rules and took pictures anyway, but I chose to be respectful and did not. I did meet a lot of Americans today - was nice to reconnect with the familiar accent, I can pick them out immediately now! LOL!!
I spent about 2 hours inside the complex, picture taking, walking around, etc. After that, I started to feel a bit hungry and decided to leave and summon Rama. Along the way, I realized they were selling Pastries filled with spiced potatoes (larger than the Samosas I've had to date, somehow they were flaky like a French Pastry). SCORE!!!! LOVE that food! I got 3 and devoured them, they were so good...
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Agra Fort
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Met back with Rama and, thankfully, all my stuff was in good standing. I knew the Universe would come through for me, I consciously worked on that faith and it worked back for me. Moreover, I trusted my instincts that I could trust this guy. I guess it was a combination of faith and gut feelings...
Anyway, the next stop was Agra Fort, the other big attraction in Agra. Along the way Rama and I chatted about the Fort, about Agra (he grew up here and has lived here his whole life) and about tourists who come to Agra. He told me a bunch of history behind the Taj and the Fort, but I couldn't retain it all and I was already on sensory overload from the Taj. He parked in a small parking lot nearby the Fort and warned me again about what I will encounter. Somehow, the Fort seemed to require even more caution, as he says pickpockets are frequent there (when they stop you to talk to you, if you stop moving, others gather around you and grab your stuff and run). Just be careful. It's like Rama was looking out for me, I was so charmed! But I got through with no problem when I followed his specific instructions - head out to the street that way, turn left, go straight through and the ticket booth is on your left. Be wary of others who watch which pocket you stick your hand into to get the money for paying your ticket. Geese! Should I carry a gun with me?? LOL :-)
I get inside and go through security. A word about security anywhere in India - the Delhi Metro, the Airport, the Taj / Fort, the train station, etc. It's a joke. They don't control it well at ALL - people constantly walk through the "Exit Only" lane completely bypassing all the security, people push and shove through the metal detectors so they can get scanned next and get ON with it! But they frisk everyone - and they aren't shy, they WILL grab your junk! LOL - happened to me a few times actually. Can't say what they do for the ladies because all ladies queues are separate from the gentlemen queues - always, in all cases in India, in all locations / terminals / transit hubs / monuments. I can't remember seeing a case where that wasn't true. There is always a protective wall around the actual ladies' security check...
So I get into Agra Fort and find it's pretty vast too - it sits on the same side of the river as the Taj but down aways, and curves upward with the river. The place is like a maze - it's fun to go through because there are so many twists, turns, unexpected hiding places, etc. I felt like a kid in a playground! Again, took SOOO many pictures, but here are a few selections:
-------Pictures skipped - see earlier blog entry(s)-------
I spent about 2 hours there as well - admiring the scenery and enjoying the breeze from the river (was really lovely, even at the back of the Taj itself). By now my camera battery was starting to drain so I tried to conserve more of my picture and video taking at this point. When I decided to leave and go find Rama, I wanted to see what he was doing when I DIDN'T call him on the cell phone but just showed up at his car. I found there were 3 - 4 other guys in his car and it looks like they were all playing poker (I saw cards being delt). They realized I was there, and Rama said something to them from behind the glass, and they all immediately vacated. LOL! Nice. Then one of them said "Sorry sir, sorry..." and did Namaste Hands to me. LOL!!!! Love the Namaste Hands in India where no one else does it but it happens to me all the time :-)...
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Craftsmanship in Agra
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so in the beginning I told Rama that I would accept his offer on the condition that he DOESN'T take me to any shops. Somehow this was forgotten, but actually, I enjoyed the side trips and (at the end of the day) felt good about giving him the extra commission for at least taking me to see the shops. They weren't ordinary shops anyway - Rama says they are government run (whatever that means, less commercial?) and will demonstrate to you how the industries of Agra thrive, so you get a fuller picture of life in the city (not just see the Taj and leave). Hmmm he already figured me out - he's trying to appeal to my intellectual side and tell me that I will be educated on this stuff with no pressure to buy. Basically Agra is known for the sights (Taj, Fort, etc.) and 3 main industries: Carving / Gem Setting, Weaving Rugs and jewelry...
To his credit, he was 66% right. Of the 3 shops we visited throughout the day, each one described a different industry, and only one of them started to get on my nerves about me buying something from them. The others were happy to just discuss the artistry, which I found intriguing when relating it to what I had seen in the Taj. Rama was calculated about when he showed me which shops, too (I realize that now) - first the Taj, then Fort, then Carving / Gem Setting (so I can see the SAME artistry that made those monuments being done right in front of my eyes). It's true, the artisans are generational and have generations going back 500 years or more - the respective craft is handed down in the family. It was fascinating to see how they work - primitive tools only, not machinery - everything done from scratch, all by hand. Even the threads that make the rugs and portraits - the threads themselves are created from scratch. I was impressed...
Soooo, unexpected to me, the Weaving shop was very interesting and I came across something that I really liked. Though beautiful and I appreciate the work that goes into them, I have no need for a giant rug in my life. Not even a small little mat made of the same material. Wait - do I? OMG I just saw this amazing little mat that I could use as a meditation mat (I would like to start a more consistent meditation practice, but have yet to be serious about it). It was black background with a bunch of surrounding Om symbols and Ganesh in the middle. I fell in love with it but played it cool, as I wanted to see what kind of price I could get. Turns out - the smallest size they have would fit my needs perfectly. 7,000 Rupees (like $160 USD) for a made from scratch, hand woven Ganesh / Om Meditation Rug. It wasn't very big, and the guy tried to up-sell me on the larger size, but I wanted the small one - that spoke to me, so I got it. 7,000 INR even includes full UPS-delivered shipping to my door in the USA so no need to lug it around with me (it wasn't even made yet, they have to create it). YES!!!
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Baby Taj (a.k.a. Itmiad ud daulah tomb)
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I skipped order a bit in describing the Agra Craftsmen. It was Taj, Fort, Carving / Gem Setting, Weaving, and THEN the Baby Taj. Did you know about this building? It's MUCH, much smaller than the Taj Mahal and doesn't carry the star power, but it is a really nice place. I found it so peaceful there - it's further south down the river. I won't write about it's history here - you can look that up yourself, but here are some of my pictures:
-------Pictures skipped - see earlier blog entry(s)-------
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Dinner with Rama
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At this point I'm beat and want to eat something and head back to the hotel to chill. Rama suggests a restaurant that he knows and is off the beaten tourist path. I forget the name now - M Something? Anyway, it's on the first floor of a hotel and they serve continental cuisine. Rama is so funny, somehow in our conversation he kept thinking I didn't know how food is served in a restaurant. "You go, yeah? Inside. Ok. Seet Down. They bring Menoo. Menoo has MANY Dings, MANY Food. You get as you like. You tell Waiter. He writes down. You wait. He brings. You eat!" I just smiled at him and I'm like "Thanks very much for explaining that, it does make sense now." But at this point I already like him so it's endearing to me...
We go, we seet down, and menoo is brought. He sits with me - wow is he going to have dinner with me?? Ok, let's roll then. After ordering, we talk about our lives - he has 2 kids, one 10 one 12 and his life revolves around them. I think he's a pretty devout Hindu (with a name like Rama, right? :-)) as he tells me something about how he follows certain eating patterns or some kind of pattern according to the day of the week. I can't remember honestly, I didn't really follow it and just kept nodding my head. Thursday is Guru day, I remember that. Tuesday and Thursdays must be vegetarian (I think). Tuesday is Hanuman day. There's a Shiva day thrown in there somewhere, don't remember where. Sunday is a free day though. Today was Tuesday, so it was Hanuman day...
Rama didn't eat with me though - as soon as the food arrived he went outside to smoke. Ok, no worries then. But holy SHIT the food was fantastic! It has to rank up there with some of the BEST Indian cuisine I have ever had. I had this Kashmiri Naan made with Almonds, Pineapples, and something else fruity that was outstanding. And to that, you add this Cashew based gravy with Paneer, Black Pepper and other Indian Spices. OMG I was devouring it - not only because I was hungry but because it was so delicious! I forgot to take a picture of it like normally do because I was too busy trying to figure how to shove the entire plate into my mouth... :-)
Get back in the car - Rama I'm ready to go "Home" to my hotel! What? Another shop (this is number 3 at this point, for the full 3). Ok ok, I'll play along and let you get your commission. Besides, he told me that the only profit he makes is from Tip from the service, the rest goes to pay the government (remember the car is not his, it's the government's, etc. etc.) But I had this image of his family waiting for him at the dinner table back home (he said he always eats dinner with his family, that's why he didn't eat with me) and my softy side caved in. I went to the jewelry shop, feigned interest for a bit, didn't buy anything, and then left. FINALLY drove me back to my hotel, and I gave him a good tip to boot. So I'd say he did pretty well, but he also worked for it by helping me out and giving me a place to trust someone...
The trust thing was especially important given my state of mind yesterday in Delhi. I didn't trust anyone or anything and I was prepared for the worst in Agra - as it is THE most touristy place in India (arguably). I was preparing to be accosted and have to deal with everything on my own. But, as the title to the blog entry says, The Universe Mocks Me - it makes me go through all that emotional shit in Delhi (I didn't sleep but 1 hour last night I was up and so worried about Agra and train travel) but then sends me a small token of hope through Rama who (unbeknown to him) helped ease my nerves...
So I'm grateful once more - grateful for the great day I had in Agra and sending out intentions for many more throughout my journey in India. Only 2 more locations to go! Rishikesh tomorrow evening, and then Amritsar next week!
Namaste and Love from Agra, India :-)
Amritsar Day 2 - Jallianwala Bagh, More Golden Temple, and The Road Home
Greetings once more from Amritsar, Punjab, India! Today was a pretty uneventful day - actually I would say the majority of the day was boring! LOL. I already did most of the sights and activities suggested by Lonely Planet yesterday. Only thing that really remained was to see Jallianwala Bagh and perhaps the Golden Temple at night, for which today I have done both...
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Jallianwala Bagh
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So this morning I decided to head over to one of the restaurants that Lonely Planet says serves Honey Muesli for breakfast (and I've been missing that, as the hotel I'm staying in doesn't have it on their menu). It ended up being mediocre at best - I actually saw the waiter go out to the street and 5 minutes later come back with pre bought Muesli mix, so it's almost as if they didn't even try to make it homemade, and I wasn't that impressed. I think tomorrow morning I will have the breakfast at the hotel once more - convenient and a little better...
The positive aspect of this was that I walked almost 1 block to the entrance of Jallianwala Bagh, the site of the so-dubbed Amritsar Massacre. For those that aren't familiar with this part of Indian history (specifically during the struggle for Independence from the British) check out this link:
Jallianwala Bagh
Basically, in 1919, there was a law passed called the Rowlatt Act that allowed British authorities to impose any kind of power they wanted over Indians who were suspected of sedition. Many strikes and protests ensued (eventually turning into violent riots. To restore order, the British sent Brigadier-General Dyer to get things under control. On 13 April 1919, a group of about 5,000 Indians were staging a non-violent, peaceful protest in Jallianwala Bah, an open space surrounded by very high walls and narrow passageways. The General arrived with about 150 armed troops and, without warning, opened fire, killing 400 people and seriously injuring 1,500 (maybe more). The crowd had no escape due to the geography of the enclosed square, and the act was considered one of the most savage ever enacted by the British - complete and total ruthless (and baseless) killing. I think it even helped to spawn Gandhi's nationalistic, civil-disobedience movement. The movie "Gandhi" from 1982 re-enacts the Jallianwala Bagh massacre in great detail, so it's worth a look if you've not seen the movie...
Anyway, here are pictures of the actual Jallianwala Bagh as it looks today, now convereted into a lovely, peaceful but mournful park:
Of course, no real visit would be complete for a white boy in India without having paparazzi asking to take a picture with me :-) hehe actually it's fun, and I stopped trying to rationalize WHY they would want a picture with some random person like me. This time I asked to also have a picture with them, and here it is:
Shortly thereafter, I had 2 other young men approach me and ask the typical questions - where are you from, how old are you, are you married, why are not married, etc. Turns out, though, these young men (brothers aged 18 and 15) had a hidden motive - after the niceties, they kept following me (almost to the bathroom) asking if I had seen one of the malls and if I was interested in going.... Crap... I was enjoying just having the conversation, not with a motive behind it... Oh well, buzz off then! LOL Such is India, yeah? :-D
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Coffee Shops & Bordem
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Afterwards, I decided I needed to get some internet connection to check up on a few things (cuz remember I have NO Internet at the hotel), so I went to the Cafe Coffee Day shop (a chain just like Starbucks only they're all over India, I had it in Rishikesh as well). The one in Rishikesh had Wifi, but guess what - no Wifi for the Amritsar branch! Well, at least they have a really good Mango shake that I like (made with ice cream even!). So I chose to hit up the traditional Internet Cafe - Lonely Planet said there was one very close to the Golden Temple, and sure enough I found it. It's hidden above another restaurant and a little tricky to find, but once you're there it's easy. I will likely have to go there again for publishing this post...
Then, I came back home and was B-O-R-E-D. I think I have done most of what I wanted to do in Amritsar - what else is there to do now? I stayed in the room for about 2 hours and just watched TV and vegged out. Then I decided to get up and go out, this time to yet another coffee shop (Lavazza Barista I think) to see if they had Wifi. Nope. Ok fine, I get it - I need to limit my internet access, I'm on it too much anyway :-)
Then I came back again, rested again, and then went out to dinner. The dinner was pretty underwhelming, I have to say, at this one restaurant I went to. They give you a full menu with a lot of good stuff, but only 1/2 the menu is available before 7pm (when "dinner" starts, and it was 6pm at the time). So I had to settle for Chinese Noodles...
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Golden Temple at Night
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After dinner, I headed back to the hotel to drop off my bag and then back out to the Golden Temple to see how it is at night. I have to say, it looks spectacular at night - a whole different feel. Check out the pictures:
In addition I had a group of young men come up to me and ask the normal questions. But this time I found it easy to converse, especially with one of them, his English is really good. I got the feeling he wants to come to America someday and wants to perfect his English through practice (authentically perfect, no motive behind it). He even mentioned that my English is so fluent and easy sounding where he has to work at it a lot. I sympathized, as it would be that way for any person learning a non-native language. We talked for like 20 minutes right on the edge of the water, and then they left, not even asking for a picture. I laughed and said I would turn the tables, and this time ask THEM for a picture with me!! Here it is:
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Preparing to Leave
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So that's about it - tonight as I write this blog entry I am preparing my stuff for departure tomorrow night. I first fly to Delhi, and I will likely meet up with Arjun again since I have such a long layover. Then, at 3am, I fly back west towards Europe and later back into the US. I am anxious and sad at the same time - this trip has been amazing and life changing, I have seen so much, I have met so many people, I have pushed my own perceptions and limitations about what I can do. That's one of the biggest things I am proud of. In fact, most Indians, when they ask me if I am traveling alone, are surprised to hear that I am (I don't entirely know why, it must be more common, I thought it was). So I am overall pleased with everything and how it has turned out thus far...
Not sure when I'll be able to post in the blog again after this, as I will be in travel mode, and before you know it I will be home...
So for now, as always, Namaste and Love from India :-)
Wednesday, February 23, 2011
Amritsar Day 1 - Devotion and Border Bravado
Greetings to all from Amritsar, Punjab, India! Yet again, my travels in the north seem to present obstacles when obtaining internet access. I was doing alright in Rishikesh, but in Amritsar it's a different story. The hotel here - it's so so, not the best hotel (the sheets are of the same mediocre, almost clean quality that I mentioned while in Agra) but certainly not the worst (bathroom is relatively clean, even though a bit stuffy and smells like mold). However, the best thing the hotel has going for it is the centralized location - seriously, I am literally across the street from The Golden Temple - I can hear the devotional chants from outside my room (plays until 10pm or so). But first a little recap of my journey to here from Rishikesh...
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Departing Rishikesh and Train Ride to Amritsar
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The morning of my Rishikesh departure was pretty uneventful. I didn't meet up with any of my yoga friends (Bob was already on his way to Delhi anyhow, and I didn't yet make plans with Anouk or Go), so I had my last breakfast there in the hotel (also the place where I had my first breakfast). I gotta say, I love the Muesli / Yogurt / Fruit combination thing that I've had almost every morning - it might be my new favorite breakfast. That combined with a cup of Masala Chai of course :-D...
So I checked out of the hotel around 11am. One of the hotel managers (Nicky) has been so kind to me throughout my stay and continued to exceed my expectations with his hospitality in helping me get to my next destination. Recall that my original arrival in Rishikesh was crazy and a bit stressful - getting lost with the Trolley Puller Guy at 2:30 am in freezing weather, remember? So it took me a few days to actually figure out the orientation of Rishikesh and find the hotel on my own - I constantly turned down the wrong alleyway or the wrong road, and I ended up letting my frustrations out to Nicky about this matter! LOL nothing serious though just complaining basically! But Nicky took it all in stride and drew me maps and even gave me his mobile phone number in case I got lost...
With that in mind, I had asked him how I was to get to the taxi stand across Ram Jhula bridge (or what the best way was for me to get to Haridwar train station, which is almost an hour away from Rishikesh). Nicky sensed my frustration again and was REALLY kind to give me a lift on his motorbike. The "rules" (if there are such things in India) about pedestrian only bridges for Ram Jhula and Laxman Jhula Bridges apparently do not apply to motorbikes, as they constantly go back and forth on the bridges, honking at you to get out of their way - on the pedestrian bridge, you are in their way, yes I know... :-D
Anyways Nicky swept me right to the Rickshaw stand where he negotiated with the driver for me to be dropped off at Rishikesh bus depot, where a bus to Haridwar Bus Station departs almost every 5 minutes. This was my first shared Rickshaw (previously they had all been individual or shared with people I already knew). But now I was the only white guy and was LITERALLY stuffed into a small nook on one of the benches in the vehicle - next to me another Indian business man, across from me a family of 6, and some other people to boot. All in all a total of about 12 people in this little thing - somehow, it all works!
The driver goes for a little while, people get off and on, etc. Finally he motions to me that he is at my destination, but I look around and do not see any bus depot. I ask again: "Bus Station??" "Yes" "Ok where?" "Down walk..." -----Points to a road which I should walk down-----. "Umm ok..." So I get off, collect my backpack, yoga mat and personal bag and the rickshaw is off while I'm standing on the side of a busy street trying to get my bearings. I ask him how much I owe - "10 rupees" Holy CRAP!! That is the cheapest ride I have ever had - then again, I had a whole 2 square centimeters in which to park myself in his vehicle, so I guess I got my money's worth...
So remember, I have all my stuff with me as I am traveling to a new city (not just my day backpack). The street is dusty, loud, smelly and of course, filled with 10,000 people running about doing all sorts of things. I head down the road not knowing if or where I will find the bus depot but trusting Nicky's word (he told me the same thing) and the rickshaw driver's. I just push forward and think about my conversation with Rani - "Divine Guidance, Divine Mind to lead the way, no fear from the Egoic Mind, Trust that you will always end up exactly where you need to be and it will be the right place". I want the right place to be the bus depot really, really bad :-)...
Ahhh success - it's not the traditional bus station you would think of but does remind me of another one I saw in Kota Kinabalu, Malaysia. Basically, an empty, dirt field that has a lot of buses in it, and a few small buildings to serve as canteen (i.e. chips, bottled water, etc.). I walk around and have no idea which bus goes to Haridwar bus station. I ask around:
"Haridwar this one?"
"No you wait it comes"
"Yes but where?"
"Wait here..." -----Motions to wait next to the canteen-----
"Ok thanks."
...
-----Time passes, maybe 4 - 5 minutes. A new rickshaw driver tries to get my business-----
"Sir yes please you are going yes?"
"No, I go bus to Haridwar"
"Haridwar yes sir I take you come..."
"No I take bus"
"I take you 40 rupees yeah?"
"Noooo, I still take bus. Thank you"
Finally, a new bus arrives, people get off and immediately a new set of people get on. Something inside me - my gut perhaps - told me this bus was the correct one (i.e. Divine Guidance remember?). There is no way I could tell from the logical standpoint - any labeling (hardly there) was done in Hindi and I could not read it, I don't know if there are colors that are associated with routes, or anything. So I ask one of the fellow passengers - "Haridwar station yes?" He nods. SCORE! Get on quick - find a seat to put all your stuff on before it gets too full and it becomes uncomfortable. I do, and it fills up. The driver has a full bus and still continues to pick people up while he is exiting the bus depot! I have to relinquish my extra seat that was holding my heavy backpack for another traveler. This means I have to sit in the same seat with all the other stuff in my lap - a balancing act that I somehow managed to do for the hour long journey. But the price? 22 Rupees - pretty cheap...
The other concern I had - I was reasonably confident that the Haridwar bus station was close to the train station (everyone had said that it was) but I didn't know orientation or direction, so I wanted to pay extra close attention when it arrived. Sure enough, the station is literally across the street - and I even recognized the prepaid taxi that the Indian gentleman guided me to upon first arriving in Haridwar from Agra. Ok nice - I got this now, I am more confident in how the trains work, how things flow and where to go. I have no problem finding the correct platform, navigating the traffic, etc.
The train between Haridwar and Amritsar is about 7 1/2 hours. It was close to on time (15 - 20 minute delay? Might as well be EXACTLY on schedule in terms of Indian time :-) ) The train did not have the sleeper bunks like the other one (at least not in first class AC), they were a bunch of chairs, similar to how you sit in an airplane. No worries, it was uneventful, never got completely full, and honestly kind of a boring ride. But I did sit next to an Indian gentleman with whom I struck up the typical conversation...
Ok here are the questions again - "My name is Jeff. I am from U.S. I am NOT married. Yes I am single. I am 31 years old. Why am I still single? I haven't met the right person yet. Yes I know Indians would think that by the time I am 31 I should be married. I don't know if I plan to get married. I don't know if children will be there. No my parents do not decide who I marry (THAT would never happen! :-)), I am not Hindu. I am involved with computers for a living. I'm sorry but I won't tell you how much money I make. I like India, yes - came for Yoga. Been to Mumbai, Goa, Delhi, Agra, Rishikesh and now going to Amritsar. Yes I did yoga in Rishikesh..." LOL they can talk about anything, but ALWAYS people ask me if I am single and why I am still single :-) Heck even the young adults (20 somethings) who I meet - they are fascinated by the fact that I am from the U.S. (one asked if I could get him a visa there) and bewildered as to why I am not married...
So, single and unbequeathed with children as I was, I made it relatively on time to Amritsar train station. I planned ahead this time and asked the hotel to send a representative to pick me up (as opposed to the madness I had at Haridwar). Good call - he was there waiting with my name and the hotel name. And it was free! Off we go...
Even late at night I could tell that Amritsar was more city than Agra or Rishikesh (but not, of course, like Delhi or anything!) It's pretty busy and is one of the centers of activity in Punjab. Only 10 minutes or so and we arrive at my hotel. The driver points out "Sir, Golden Temple there." Oh ok - it didn't look like what I imagined (or have seen) it to look like. Only the next day did I realize that I was looking on the outside of the complex, the actual golden edifice was on the inside courtyard surrounded by that outside building...
So the hotel - it's ok, like I said earlier. It tries to be luxurious but just has too many things not working for it to be so (and I guess I cannot compare to the Delhi Hilton!) The sheets have a strange consistency to them - sort of like they were washed but with some strange kind of powder or detergent. Moreover there are stains and splotches on the sheets and bed pillows - like I said, you can tell they were laundered, but seriously they need to replace the actual sheets they use. Bathroom is pretty clean, which is a huge positive, though the shower curtain also needs replacing as it smells like mold. Television is from 1990 and the remote works only partially - you cannot do the volume on the remote (there are buttons to do so, but they are broken), the reception is cable but fuzzy, etc. The internet - well I don't know what is going on with their internet. They give you an Ethernet cable, there is a jack in the wall, but you cannot connect (the staff cannot figure it out either, I think they just gave up) Whatever - just a place to rest my head for the next few days. Here are some pics of the hotel:
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Golden Temple
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So this morning I got up around 7am and decided to have breakfast on the hotel's rooftop terrace. Excellent choice! What the hotel lacks in basic stuff it MORE than makes up in its location and views of the Golden Temple. I could see almost the entire thing from that roof! Here are some pictures:
After a light breakfast, I walked across the street and attempted to figure out protocol / policy for entering The Golden Temple complex. You see, it is a VERY holy place - you cannot enter with shoes (not even socks) and all patrons heads must be covered with at least a scarf (or if you are Sikh you might already have the turbin). So I realized that the entry plaza has a bunch of souvenir shops, many of which sell these orange scarves for you to buy (10 rupees, no big deal at all), but you can also borrow them for free from the temple (nah I'd rather have my own thanks :-) )...
While I'm figuring this out in my head, all of a sudden this 60 year old something Pubjabi man comes running up to me and starts blathering in another language I don't get. Of the nearly 20 sentences he spurts out, maybe 4 words are recognizable English, and scattered among the set of sentences. He smiles and chuckles at me. Somehow I ascertain that he wants something to do with a camera - ahh is this another case of paparazzi following me?? Am I to have my picture taken with your family sir? But I have yet to buy my scarf - I need to do that first, then if you produce a camera, I will happily pose for you...
Hmmm ok you look at me blankly when I ask you this. Clearly communication isn't going the way I had hoped. Why are you pointing at my head? Yes I know I'm bald, thank you. What the FUCK are you doing???? The guy grabs my head and starts playing the drums on it - he starts beating it left and right, amused by the sound it makes as if he were a toddler that just discovered something new. Ok you can stop now. Geese I thought the head was sacred, ESPECIALLY to Sikhs (i.e. don't I have to go and buy a scarf to protect my crown chakra before I can enter your most holy of shrines??), and here you are putting yourself all over mine!
When this ceases, he then motions me to the scarf shop, where I easily buy my orange scarf that you will see in pictures below. Then he motions me to follow him - I keep thinking he wants to introduce me to his family, but again I couldn't tell because I couldn't understand him. He goes into the bathroom - no thanks, I will not follow you into the loo...
Another young guy sees this commotion and, while old Punjabi man is taking a leak, runs up to me. "Sir you ok is everything ok?" Ah ok I can communicate with this guy. "Yeah I think so, this guy seems to want me to take a picture with him, but I have yet to see his camera. And I thought he was going to fetch his family but he just went to the bathroom. So I am not sure what he wants." "Sir you must be careful out here - trust no one, you do not know what the motivations or intentions of people are." "Good idea - all I want to do is go inside the temple, I should just go now while he is busy" "I think that is wise..."
I hurry to take off my shoes, check in my bag (you cannot bring it in with you) and enter the complex before crazy Punjabi man returns. It's really interesting - you have to "wash" your feet, which basically means you step in a pool of warm water. Thankfully, the Sikhs are pretty good about having a clean temple. The water is replaced and refreshed constantly (even with the high number of people that enter / exit it), the floors are constantly washed, etc. It really wasn't a problem at all...
This link will tell you more about the Golden temple:
Golden Temple
I have to say, as of this writing, The Golden Temple is by far the most religious feeling of shrines that I have visited in India. I almost felt out of place the entire time I was there because I was not familiar with ritual - everyone bows to almost everything. Before you even ENTER the steps, they touch the steps, they bow to it, even down on their hands and knees. At first sight of the golden shrine (called the "Hari Mandir Sahib") in the middle of the courtyard, you stop, kneel, bow, pray, namaste hands, and back up. You can even walk around the courtyard (called the Parkarma) with Namaste hands all day if you like (many did). They bow and pray to many other parts of the complex as well - an ancient tree, huge poles that are inscribed with some kind of writing, all other buildings flanking the corners of the courtyard, etc...
The pool that surrounds the golden edifice is called the "Amrit Sarovar" (hence the city name "Amritsar"), and is itself used for bathing - I guess considered holy in the same sense that the Ganga is considered holy to Hindu tradition. Men took off all but underwear, jumped in the water, submerged themselves repeatedly, etc. Women did the same but in their own, separate, covered ghats (of course, this is India, separate Ladies queues and areas for everything). This time around, I didn't feel drawn to participate with even putting my feet in the water - actually I read in Lonely Planet that Sikhs prefer if tourists do not enter the water at all, just sit cross legged on the outer edge for meditation or contemplation. Good thing I guess - again, although very welcomed by all who I encountered there, I personally felt out of place much of the time I was there, as I didn't know custom, tradition or ritual...
How could one even meditate in that environment? They have loudspeakers that, for almost the entire day, dawn to 10pm, they sing out loud the Gurmukhi chanting from the Sikh holy book called the "Guru Granth Sahib". And there are so many pilgrims and visitors there - many other Sikhs who consider this site similar to what Muslims consider Mecca. Nevertheless, you do somehow feel peaceful (even with all the commotion) and walking around the Parkarma is really enjoyable...
Here are some of the pictures I took of the Golden Temple complex:
Now, you can see the bridge that leads up to the Hari Mandir Sahib gets really packed. I braved the crowds and waited in line along with the other pilgrims. Of course, they all had some kind of banana leaf thing in their hands that I saw them get earlier, but I chose to be simple and just follow along, as I wouldn't know what to do with the leaves even if I got them. Eventually I made it to the front - the bottom part of the building is inlaid marble, almost exactly like the Taj Mahal. The top half, however, is pure gold! It shimmers, it is amazing. Inside is even MORE amazing! It's like you're walking into a room purely made of gold! And look! There are a set of guys sitting on the floor with a mike, a sitar, and some drums. Ahhh the singing I hear on the loud speakers in the rest of the complex - it is being sung LIVE and in the heart of this temple. Makes sense...
The Hari Mandir Sahib has a few floors that you can go up and pray to various things - various pictures and statues, old books (significant books I'm sure, and probably original versions that are 300 years old), etc. Besides kneeling, bowing and praying, some people actually just sit down on the floor and close their eyes, meditating I guess?? Some just people watch. All emit a vibe of total devotion to Guru (or collection thereof, apparently a long lineage of Gurus starting with the fourth Guru Ram Das who founded Amritsar in 1577)...
So basically, I spent a few hours roaming around the Parkarma on my own - taking in the atmosphere, listening to the chanting, recording some video, etc. I even found an unoccupied space under the covered part of the walkway and sat down myself, integrating and people watching. They also have a museum where you can go and see paintings, artifacts, etc. that tell the Sikh story through the ages. They endured quite a lot of massacres and horrific brutality in their years...
Around lunchtime, I headed over to the Guru-Ka-Langar, which is the community dining room of the Golden Temple where all visitors (Sikh pilgrims and tourists alike) are invited to a free Vegetarian meal. It is a staple of the Sikhs that all are included and accounted for in life's daily dealings, and no one person is "higher" than another. The original Guru had a big problem with the Hindu Caste System, and always made sure that even he (and visiting dignitaries, kings, queens, etc.) sat among the common people for meals, as we all have to eat to survive, and therefore all are considered equal under the eyes of God. Pretty progressive, right? :-D
So I jumped at the chance to experience this once in a lifetime opportunity. I found the line where you start, they hand you a metal tray, a spoon and a bowl. Then, the doors to the hall open and you quickly sit down and cross your legs. You are served from pales that contain dal (lentils, beans, etc.), some other kind of vegetable curry I think, rice and chapatis. It's very symbolic - you are on the floor, ready to receive the bounty from God. You lift up your plate, they put food on it, you rescind the plate back to the floor with gratitude. If you get chapatis, you cup your hands and hold them up in front of your face, where they are "dropped". It makes you feel like you are truly lucky and fully conscious of "receiving" this opportunity to continue living because you have food in your stomach...
It's really an amazing feat - they feed some 60,000 to 80,000 people a DAY in this manner, and for hundreds of years! If you want more, they are always coming around asking if you want seconds. If not, you get up and take your dirty plates / spoon outside to a group of volunteers who collect, rinse and wash all the plates in a very systematic manner. I recorded this process in video on my camera, I can show you this later...
Then, I headed back to my hotel for some down time, as that was a lot to do in one morning and a lot to incorporate. In addition to The Golden Temple, one of the highlights about Amritsar is that it is close by the India / Pakistan border for which there is a huge show that is put on every day when the border closes at night (well, not night but sunset). Turns out that many hotels have booking arrangements to see this in addition to some other Hindu temples that are in Amritsar. I also heard that sometimes you can schedule a trip to the border with a group of other people if you happen to find them while at the Golden Temple (particularly at the Guru-Ka-Langar lunch), but I had no such luck. Instead, I decided to book it only for myself...
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Amristar Hindu Temples
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By 2:15 pm I was in the taxi and heading to the first Hindu Temple. My taxi driver was a sweet Sikh whose name I didn't catch but whose demeanor and heart were second to none :-) He didn't speak much English but somehow we managed to communicate - sometimes, you have connection with people where language is only secondary, and eventually I built a subtle but present connection with this guy (compare to crazy Punjabi old man who likes to play the drums on my head! :-D)...
Anyways, I didn't know much about the Hindu temples in Amritsar at all, so some of this information you read is directly from Lonely Planet. :-) The first place he took me was the Sri Durgiana Temple, a 16th century temple that looks a lot like the Sikh Golden Temple in that it is surrounded by water but has carved Silver doors (as opposed to Golden). The driver said I could only spend 10 - 15 minutes here, as not only did we have to make it to the border on time to get a good seat (30 km to the border from Amritsar) but also 10 - 15 minutes is all you really need unless you're doing a religious practice there. Here are some pictures of the Sri Durgiana Temple:
Next, He took me to the Mata temple - a cave temple commemorating the 20th century female saint, Lal Devi. This place was bizarre to me - it is like a labyrinth with many twists, turns, and yes even caves where you HAD to get down on your hands and knees and crawl through (the space was that tiny). There are also ankle deep waterways that you have to go through at the end - the water was NASTY but you had no other choice in order to exit. Here are some pictures of the Mata temple:
After 20 minutes or so of that, we were off to the India / Pakistan border...
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India / Pakistan Border Closing Ceremony
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The drive out to the border takes about 1 hour and is pretty enjoyable. Whereas the city of Amritsar itself is crazy with traffic, pollution, people, etc. - the "normal" part of India I have been experiencing - this was one of the first times I got to see quiet, calm and peaceful countryside of India. Rolling hills, meadows, and open fields - a lot of wheat is grown in the Punjabi region, as the climate is good for it (especially now, it gets cold here) as is the soil...
Along the way, the taxi driver asks me if I want to stop for Chai. He knows a good Chai place along the way. Being that I have come to LOVE Masala Chai (Indian Tea), I resoundingly concur. We stop in this little, tiny shop out in the middle of nowhere. I run to the toilet, then sit down and have a really good cup of chai. They prepared it just the way I like it - not too bitter, maybe more on the sweet side, but not SO sweet that you can't drink it. One of the shopkeepers (there appeared to be more than one) spoke very good English and was conversing with me about how I liked India, where I am from, what he likes about different parts of India, etc. I could tell that he was assessing me to see my background...
Turns out my suspicion was right (I really need to learn to trust my gut instincts even more!) When I finished the Chai and asked how much, guess... Guess how much he wanted to charge me for 2 chais (also my taxi driver's chai).... 50 rupees... Not the typical 10 that I pay in restaurants (15 at absolute most) and have been doing for almost a month now... No FIFTY!! So what can I do at this point in time - there are now 3 - 4 guys surrounding me and looking at me while he says 50 rupees. I already consumed the chai. I guess I have to pay 50... Damn... Oh well, I got in the car and told the taxi driver about it. "Yes, you right, best chai I have had, but also MOST Expensive!!" At first I don't think he got what I was saying, just the part that I liked the chai. Then, about 5 minutes later, he turns around and asked me again - "Wait FIFTY Rupees??" "YES!!!!" He was clearly disturbed himself and almost wanted to turn the car around to go back and have a word with the shopkeep. "No no no nevermind, it's ok, for next time, you know this man overcharge me, overcharge tourist!" It was only 30 rupees that I paid extra (not even $1 USD), but still - the principal of it. To even things out, the taxi driver offered to pay the tolls on the road (which originally I had to pay, per the rules from the hotel). I accepted. See, this is why I like this taxi driver - he is honest, sincere and fair - I gave him a 50 Rupee tip for that at the end of the day :-D
So we finally get there, the driver lets me out and I have to walk about 10 minutes until the actual border where there are bleachers setup for the show (apparently this is a big show and lots of Indians love to come to it). Not too many touts, just a few trying to sell DVD's that explain the ceremony, but even then they weren't overly in your face about it like they would be in other places in India. I go through security (another metal detector which is completely ignored but comes with a frisking everyone gets anyway) and arrive at the gate, where I climb the steps to the bleachers to grab an area (most of the time we stood, only a few times did we sit)...
All in all it was an enjoyable show. Some of the pomp and circumstance the soldiers on both the India and Pakistan side do is just plain silly, but it's definitely for show. Before the show they have what looks to be an M.C. who pumps up the crowd by playing music and encouraging shouts from the crowd. "Hindustan Zindabad!" ("Long Live India!") is shouted fiercely with a lot of pride from the crowd! And the Pakistan side is noticeably subdued - all are sitting in their bleachers, solemn faced and very serious, where the Indian side is having a party. People are dancing in the street, waving hands up and down, children and women are running up and down the street with the Indian flag, etc. So glad that I was on the Indian side :-) In fact, that was probably the closest I will ever get to the country of Pakistan - at least in the foreseeable future. here are some pictures from the India / Pakistan border closing ceremony:
After the ceremony, I walked out with the massive exodus (complete with the impatient pushing and shoving common to all Indian crowds, of course) and found my taxi for the hour long ride home. Another enjoyable ride along the countryside, watching the sunset in the background. Taxi driver and I didn't say a word, but nothing was needed to be said - we just enjoyed the journey. As I mentioned, I gave him Rs.50 because I liked him and departed his vehicle with my Namaste hands to my heart :-)
Then I had a quick dinner in the hotel next door (just to try something different) as I didn't want to venture out too far tonight, since I'm tired and had a long day. Plus I had to write all this info in the blog :-)
Tomorrow?? Not sure - only real thing left is the Jallianwala Bagh, which is the park that commemorates the Indians who were wounded or killed in 1919 when the British authorities ruthlessly opened fire on men, women, children and even babies who were participating in peaceful demonstration against the controversial Rowlatt Act of 1919 that gave British authorities full 'emergency' powers to impose without trial Indians suspected of sedition. So tragic and so severe was the massacre at Amritsar that it is widely credited to have sparked Gandhi's national program of civil disobedience. So that looks like a site to see before I leave. Other than that, not sure - will wait to see what the wind brings...
Namaste and Love from Amritsar, India :-)
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