Hi everyone. Well, I know it's been a few days since I have posted anything. Truth be told, I actually have not had internet access in the last few days in either Agra or Rishikesh. I am currently in Rishikesh though, and they do not have Wifi but do have a station where you can either use their computers or hook up your own (but they frown upon picture uploading / downloading, plus it costs me 20 Rupees an hour to use either way). Needless to say, Internet will not be easy to come by as before - not sure how it will be in Amritsar next week though...
Just wanted to let you all know I'm still alive :-) I have continued to write some blog entries on my local computer (stored on the Hard Drive) and maybe someday soon I can find the time / space to post them, but for now I'll try to give a VERY brief analysis. I cannot post pictures (aforementioned reason), but rest assured I have them:
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Train Travel from Delhi to Agra
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I took my first Indian Train a few days ago from Delhi to Agra - second class travel (due to the rebooking I had to do - see previous post) was an adventure for sure! Think only white guy in a train packed with Indians - men, women, children, families, chai wallahs, Acrobatic Children (yes they were flipping themselves up and down the train aisles), Homeless beggers, etc. One of the beggers even hit my leg to wake me up while I was trying to sleep - I was startled and woke up to find her hand shoved in my face and barking "MONEY!!!" to me. HA! Good luck with that lady, I said "No". Then she did it again - "MONEY YES!!" Then I did it again. "NO!!" Then she slaps me on on the shoulder and said something to the effect of "NO MONEY NO GIRLFRIEND HA OK BYE!!" "No protest here!" I wrote more about it in my forthcoming blog entry...
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Agra, India
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Agra - I was expecting the worst, given all that I went through in Delhi. I got absolutely the best! I think the Universe toys with me - all the problems and emotional SHIT that I had on my last night in Delhi were reversed when I met my taxi driver in Agra. Rama (his name) took me under his wing and showed me a really great city. I saw the Taj Mahal folks - perhaps the most beautiful building in the world - it does NOT disappoint! I took LOADS AND LOADS of pictures - I ran the battery out of my camera because I also went to Agra Fort and The Baby Taj. But if I'm going to run out of battery, it might as well be taking pictures of the Taj Mahal!!
Hotel in Agra was blah - kind of dirty, spiders, unclean sheets (I checked for bed bugs - none thank goodness). The Delhi Hilton it was NOT! Was glad to be out of there though - I even called Rama to take me back to the train station the next morning (we're tight like that - I have his cell phone number :-) ). LOL!
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Train Travel from Agra to Haridwar
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The trip from Agra to Haridwar lasted nearly 12 hours (with all delays - 2 hours I think, plus weather delays, etc.) but I got to go on my original reservation which was 2A (A/C first class). WHAT a difference! Like seriously night and day. However, it turned out to be a really good highlight of my journey. Most of that is due to this AMAZING and kind Indian family (father and son) with whom I shared space. They were just so fantastic - they shared food with me (home cooked Indian food - chapatis, Lentils, Some Paneer dish, Okra, etc.) The father was even so kind as to help me get a prepaid taxi in the INSANITY of the Haridwar Train Station upon arrival. I prostrated gratitude to them - I'm leaving out a lot of details but trust me, the two of them are some of the BEST people I have ever met in my life. They are authentic - they have true devotion to others, their faith, humanity in general. I was so impressed - they were Angels to me...
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Rishikesh, India
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Somehow I made it to my hotel in Rishikesh but the journey was difficult. It's a long story but basically Rishikesh is a holy city on the River Ganges and one side is pedestrian only (well you can also take motorbikes but not cars, but even that is broken somehow). So my taxi driver took me to the foot of the Ram Jula bridge and said I had to cross myself (well not so much said as he spoke NO English, but grunted and pointed and said some stuff I didn't understand). You have to picture this to appreciate it - I'm frazzled from Haridwar train station, it's 12:30am (because the train was so delayed), and I don't know where I am at all. I don't even have the address of the hotel (DUH!!) just the name, and no one seems to know where that hotel is. By myself, eventually I find a rickshaw that pulls a contraption that carries my bags (think pulling a wheelbarrel but only a flat surface). He guides me across the Ram Jula bridge and we start to look for my hotel...
At this point I have one of the most out-of-this-world experiences in my life. I am standing hundreds of feet above the mighty Ganges on a bridge, one of the most famous rivers in the world. It's nearly 1 am. The wind is HOWLING through the mountain valley and blowing on my face. I'm shivering and alert and nervous all at the same time. It's like 30 degrees outside (BIG difference in weather, plus it had just rained). This is fucking India, baby! Seeing the blackness of the city and hearing the REALLY strong waves on the Ganga, it was amazingly powerful and I felt so small and insignificant. Hopefully I conveyed it properly - maybe not, I dunno, somethings you as the reader will not be able to understand until you come here yourself...
The rickshaw takes me all around the city looking for my hotel, asking people left and right - well most everyone is asleep but some were awake. No one knows where this is. Where am I anyway??? How do I even know where to start?? Fuck - dude it's 2:30 am by this time and I'm STILL trying to find the hotel for which I don't have a phone number or address. My hotel confirmation letter was a simple email, and I just didn't realize that information wasn't present. So I couldn't even call them...
It was at this time that, back against the wall, I prostrated to God asking for guidance once more. I've been building and intensifying a deeply personal relationship with God on this trip - we have been through a lot together. He sent Angels to help me find my way and I have been letting go of my obsessive compulsive need to control my experience and allowing it to happen as it will. He sent them on the Haridwar train, He sent Rama to me, He sent Arjun, He sent Katja, Petra and Sarah, He sent Verena & Ulla, He sent Raffael & Gabriel. I have to be one of the most blessed people in the world - I am always taken care of no matter what, I know this now. I have people that really care about me, not just my family, but all over the world (and that is now the truth - they ARE from all over the world!) I ask, It is given - I believe this deep within my soul...
FINALLY - an Indian appears who knows the way to the hotel. We are on the wrong side of town. ARGH! Another 20 minute walk back to where we originally were. NOW I see signs for the hotel! Up a little ways, down some dark alleys, FOUND IT! I gave the Rickshaw 300 Rupees (asked for 200) because it was a hard night for him too, pulling that contraption. I'm sure his back was sore...
Hotel is very simple but really nice - no heater though so it's like 40 degrees in my room and the wind still howls. But I have a nice, warm blanket that worked well last night, so no complaints. And I have hot water in the shower, so definitely no complaints!
Rishikesh is unlike any other Indian city I visited. Whereas in Delhi I felt constantly on guard and timid, Rishikesh is all about the yoga vibe. EVERYONE does Namaste to you (hands pressed in front of the chest OR right palm pressed to the heart). There are sadus walking around, sometimes asking for food or money, but not nearly as prevalent. Shopkeepers don't get in your face and harass you - you come to them, they smile - "Hari Om! Namaste!" "Namaste to you! Jai Guru Dev!"...
Today was my first full day in the city. Had a great breakfast at the hotel and then decided to walk around and check things out. I found my way from Ram Jula bridge to the other, more populated Lakshimi Jula bridge to the north. Lots of tourists here, many spiritual seekers too. Very New Age vibe - TONS and TONS of Yoga Ashrams, people do bathe in the Ganges as well, bells ringing, Hash being smoked, etc.
I went to a cafe across the river that was recommended by Lonely Planet. Found myself talking with a very nice woman from Ohio. In fact, she and I connected very well and talked for almost 4 hours. I had originally planned to practice some Ashtanga Yoga this evening but wanted to be open to my experiences as I receive them. So she and I decided to go and look for a Hindu temple (she is a practicing Hindu, actually) and perform worship for Shiva. Today is the evening of the Nataraja, where Shiva is worshiped in dancing form as the destroyer and creator of the Universe. See more here:
Nataraja
It ended up being an adventure in rickshaw haggling - she is so good at it, but we never got to where we wanted to go. It was an adventure of letting go of expectations and just being in the moment - hard to explain right now, plus I'm running out of internet time, so you'll just have to be fine with that explanation :-)
Anyway, enjoying Rishikesh so far. My life has already changed, I know it. You will not recognize the same person when I return, I feel this to be true. I am immensely grateful to the Universe for all that I have experienced so far...
Namaste & Love from India :-)
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