I just realized I missed uploading a post for my time spent in Agra. As you recall Internet access has been a challenge at times during my travels in the North of India, so I usually wrote a blog entry locally on my computer and the uploaded when I had the chance...
This post was written while in Agra - I won't repost the pictures as I've already done that part in other blog entries. But you can see the stories here... Namaste :-)
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Greetings to all from Agra, Uttar Pradesh, India! I'm writing this entry without internet access, so I'm not sure when I'll be able to post it. I'm in hotel, which apparently doesn't have wifi or any in room internet. You can use their outdated computer downstairs for 60 Rupees an hour if you want, but that's it. So I will wait for the right moment to post this...
If you read my previous entry from Delhi, you'll observe that I had a love hate relationship with my experiences in the city. Loved my time spent with Arjun and the quiet parts of the city - absolutely hated the utter chaos that, evidently, overwhelmed me sometimes. But today was PACKED full of sights and adventure - exactly the opposite of what I was expecting Agra to be. Let me explain my day...
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Train ride to Agra
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So as you read yesterday, I had a hell of a time finding the International Tourist Office and getting the train ticket to Agra. But eventually I did, of course, and the train I was booked on left at 7:10am. Given that the Hilton Hotel is in an area of Delhi known as Janakpuri (way, way west of the city center), the concierge expected my journey to the train station to be around 1 hour (given traffic, even at 5:15 in the morning!). He was right - it took about 1 hour door to door. I gotta say, the Hilton bent over backwards for me this morning - they helped me in a consistent, professional manner with almost every aspect of all the crap i was dealing with - getting the room bill straightened out (I had charged quite a bit of stuff to the room, including a courier shipment back home), helping me identify the platform I need to go to in the train station to make my life easier once I get there, etc. I loved my stay at that hotel - expensive but TOTALLY money well spent!
So the Hilton hired a taxi for me (and he was even metered! I have YET to experience that in India, much less any of my Asia travels) and he arrived around 5:15 am to pick me up. I decided to convert my backpack from it's former duffel bag version that I carried with my hand to a true backpack, and it's much more helpful when doing train travel. That was the first time I used it in that fashion. The taxi driver was a kind Muslim man who spoke VERY little English (broken at that) but tried to engage conversation with me anyway, pointing out the Diplomatic row of Embassies in Delhi from all countries of the world (since Delhi is the capital and the political center of India, for the most part). With the exception of the fabulous Delhi Metro system (which I figured out quickly), I had zero directional sense for all other parts of Delhi for the whole time I was there, so I had no idea how we got to the train station...
Anyway, the driver let me out, helped me assemble my gear (including hoisting my backpack onto my shoulders), I paid him, we did Namaste hands (of course, the Hilton hired him, he was probably instructed to do so!!) and I was off into the station. It was around 6:00 am and I found it MUCH easier to navigate than the gigormous New Delhi Train Station. For those not in the know, Delhi has 3 main train stations (according to Lonely Planet): New Delhi Train Station, Old Delhi Train Station, and Nizamuddin. Don't ask me to tell you the difference between them I have no idea - all I know is my ticket said Nizamuddin, so that's where I was (I think it's smaller than New Delhi Train Station)...
The Hilton told me Platform # 5 would be my departing train, I found the platform, but no train at the time (I was WAY early, earlier than the Hilton concierge told me I would be, but glad to have some buffer anyway). There were a lot of people scattered around the floor of the platform - many sleeping under blankets, as it was pretty cold that morning (maybe even upper 40's for the low??) I chose an area of the platform and parked myself on a bench and chilled. The announcements of the train arrivals, departures, and delays were the same as in New Delhi - they use an MS Windows "tada" chime to separate the messages, I found that so hilarious! I took a video of it, but was cautious of taking pictures, as I was still in unfamiliar territory. Also, I don't like to take pictures of people in those circumstances - would have to ask permission first...
So I waited for a while and eventually the train came into the station. My ticket said Class "2S" which is 2nd Class Sleeper. Sleeper doesn't mean you necessarily sleep on the train (would be hard to do that on THIS train anyway) but instead refers to the orientation of the seats. They are basically benches (cushioned) where 3 people sit to a bench. If no one else was occupying the bench, I guess you could technically sleep on it, but this train was jammed packed. I had no idea what to expect - there was no A/C in this class (not that you would need it, it was cold enough already, but the train has a bunch of fans stuck to the ceiling). Again, no pictures, not the right environment, I felt, to take pictures in. I had trouble locating my train car (D5) but then figured out that the identifier is on the car but juts outwards and wasn't very visible in the dim lighting conditions of the station. And there is no organization to the cars in the train - why would there be anyway, this is India, such things do not exist!! Locomotive, Baggage car, Sleeper, Sleeper, Chair A/C, Chair, Sleeper, Sleeper, Chair A/C, etc...
I found my car, went inside, and found the seat number. Apparently, the seat was already occupied by a small little girl and the rest of her family beside her. I think the family all booked together (there were like 7 of them), so they probably wanted to sit together. No worries, I didn't say anything, I just took the next available seat across the way. So I sat there for a while as people slowly meandered onto the train. At first it was virtually empty, but later became so packed that people were standing during the entire journey. They don't seem to be very strict about the standing rules on Indian Railways - Lots of people standing, lots of people jumping up and taking other seats, etc. No organization. I stayed put - I was not moving until I absolutely had to go to the bathroom (which I later did, more later)...
We were delayed like 30 minutes before we finally left. And only as the train starts to depart the station, even more people realize it, and they run for it. They run and grab onto the train as it's moving. Quite comical. Moreover, they open the exit doors during travel and sometimes hang out there, where someone could easily just fall out. And the ticket taking guys don't come around until 1 hour or so into the 3 hour journey, and even THEN there is no organization. Yet, this system of transportation moves millions and millions of people every single day in this vast country, so who am I to tell them what does or does not work?
I basically said almost nothing during the entire journey, as the people sitting in my immediate area clearly spoke no English (or preferred not to for fear that they won't know the right word, something I've experienced already in Malaysia). Of course, the chai wallahs - how could I forget? Love those guys - they walk up and down the aisles screaming "CHAI CHAI CHAIYA CHAI CHAI" - LOL!! I didn't partake, but was amused none the less. Later they started selling food (samosas, Tomato Soup in a can, some other kind of sandwich that I couldn't identify, Water, Mango Juice, Toys, Key Chains, novelties that flash up and light themselves, newspapers, etc. Basically anything...
And yes - there were beggars. In fact, early on the trip I was tired so I tried to shut my eyes to rest. I actually started to fall deeper into sleep when some beggar woman hits my leg with her hand. I'm startled and I wake up - she's looking at me, she literally SHOVES her hand into my face and barks "MONEY!" HA! Like THAT would work, lady! I don't care if you DO have a baby in your arm. I say "No" and shake my head. Then she goes "YES!" Then I go "NO!" and shake my head again, looking away towards the dirty, smelly floor. She laughs a little, then slaps me on the shoulder with her hand and says something I can't remember, maybe it was like "Ha Ok no Money no GIRLFRIEND for you!!!" Everyone around me started laughing - of course I was the ONLY white guy in the entire car, so I did draw attention to myself anyway. Besides homeless women asking for money, there was this family of a mother and 2 children who tried to perform for us during the travel. The kid was hilarious - maybe 5 years old, just went around grabbing the back of his head and his crotch and thrusting his hips upwards, as if he was Michael Jackson or something. He just keeps doing it over and over again, faster and faster, saying something in Hindi (I think). Then, next thing you know, he does a drop back into a full backbend and then kicks his legs up over his head. The 5 year old gymnast who wears a white glove. What happens after the performance? Take a guess.... Yes you're right, he wants money. No, I don't want to break my 50 Rupee note, sorry kid...
So the rest of the journey went on like that. People talk REALLY loudly on the train all the time, but somehow I was able to tune them out for a while and get at least SOME sleep. The train made a couple of stops but I realized that I had to find a way to identify the particular station we were currently at. There was no announcement or anything - that would make logical sense, and we can't have that in India! No, it's as my friend Arjun from Delhi told me about train travel - the system is geared around individuals who live and use the train system frequently, so they automatically know the name, number, arriving platform, order of stops, everything. Thus, since they know it, no bother to announce it (not that I would understand it anyway, as the announcements in English were hard to understand, minus the pre-programmed computer generated ones). I finally figured out that the train station name is located on posts throughout the station, but you have to look fast. The English portion is written WAY at the top of the sign and is not easy to pick up (initially) from a moving train. I thought most people would get off at the Agra Cantt stop, but not true - many got off on the stop prior to or remained as I left...
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Arrival in Agra
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So I grab my bags, assemble myself, and realize that even though not ALL the people are getting off at this stop, there are still a LOT of people getting on and others who want to get on for the first time. Great - here comes the bum rush, just like on the Delhi Metro, and me with all my backpack gear, etc. An observation on this - people in India have no sense of courtesy when it comes to allowing people to enter or exit. Everyone literally pushes as much and as hard as they can - they can't wait, they HAVE to get going, they will run you over. At least in London they wouldn't knock you down - in India, I think they would (at least it feels that way)...
Somehow, I make it out among a THRONG of screaming people. Just as I expected (and read in Lonely Planet) touts spotted me immediately and tried to "help" me book a taxi or a reservation to a hotel or whisk me away to see the Taj Mahal. Dodging them, I found the prepaid taxi center. The taxi drivers were vicious vultures competing with one another for my fare, they all followed me up to the counter and tried to shove their way to the ticket guy behind the counter and say that I was with them. So crazy! I had my game face on again - that was what drained me in Delhi, I felt like I had to have my game face on 24/7, minus the times spent with Arjun and Marco...
I paid, and walked away, and this nice, middle aged man somehow convinced me to follow him into his cab. It was a van, actually, a Chevy van at that. I get in and we start chatting about how crazy the station is, etc. His name is Rama and I will get to know much more of him over the entire day - and actually, to tell you the truth, Rama MADE my day in Agra such a fantastic one!
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Arrival at hotel and the Taj Mahal
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So Rama takes me to the hotel, I check in, I drop my stuff off in my room, and then he advised me to get going quick so I would have time to see all that I wanted to see in Agra. He would be my driver NOT my guide, he was very clear on that - he was not a guide, he worked for the Indian government and city of Agra as a tourist driver. It's true, his vehicle said "Tourist Vehicle" on it (well i assumed it to be true). The government rate is 750 Rupees for the driver to take you around all day, but he would do it for 650 Rupees. So that means, take me to all the sights, explain to me the history behind all the sites and what things mean BEFORE I went out into them and saw them myself while he stayed behind and waited for me. Interesting. Inside me, something said "Do it - this is the guy for you". "Ok it's a deal - let's go see the Taj"...
So mind you, it was raining in Agra all morning (a cold rain that we still felt in Delhi and during the train ride over). But by now (11am-ish) the clouds had started to break for sunshine, and I thought "What perfect timing for me to see this!" Indeed, it was. Rama drove me to the West Gate of the Taj and gave me a few words of warning:
1) Do not believe people who tell you that a guide is included in your Taj Admission price - it isn't, they are ripping you off for 675 Rupees.
2) Watch out for the monkeys and don't feed them - they can be vicious and are everywhere during the walk to the entrance.
3) You don't need a rickshaw or anything to get to the ticketing booth - it's a 5 minute walk, you go straight through, curve to the right with the road, and then turn left. (We went over this several times before I exited).
4) The only things allowed into the Taj Complex are yourself, your camera, your mobile (switched off), your money, keys, etc. No other electronics, no liquids, no food, nothing. Almost like getting on an airplane now a days, but you can see why - the Taj Mahal would be a perfect place to cause some real havoc to a lot of people all at once, it's so high profile...
I made a quick decision that I would trust Rama with my bag (which wasn't even unpacked from the trip so it had many (not all) of my valuables in it). I realized this only later as I was touring the Taj, but somehow, I felt this trust with Rama - don't know why, it was different with him. I consciously said to myself, over and over, "Don't worry, nothing will happen, it's all ok, don't let the paranoia voice inside your head tell you differently, I have a gut feeling about this and I am going to trust it and give away my anxieties." This is a small practice for a general challenge that I have in life - getting anxious about things that (at the point in time) I cannot control, and having to give complete and utter trust and faith to God / The Universe that I will be taken care of...
Besides, I felt as if I needed to write everything down, Rama was so specific in many of his instructions. He did not go in with me, as no vehicles are allowed within a certain radius of the Taj to help control pollution, but we did exchange cell phone numbers (as I do have an Indian SIM Card now) so I would call him when I am through. So off I go and I don't stop for any of the touts that surely do come up to me. They shove things in my face, they come WITH me to the ticketing office and then try to convince me that the guide is included in the price (word for word as Rama said). I brisk past them and shake my hand in front of them to say "No No, don't want". Worked like a charm - they backed off eventually because I totally ignore them...
The Taj Mahal - it is widely considered to be the most beautiful building in the world. It does not fail to impress and live up to that standard, as it is every bit magnificent as you heard it to be. It's bigger that you thought it was. It is more ornate than you thought it was. The complex is VAST!!! So many buildings make up the complex, but the recognizable one is the Tomb itself. There is also a Mosque (active one, prayer on Fridays at least, maybe more frequently). I drained my camera battery taking so many pictures today of all the sights, but why not? I'm at the freggin TAJ MAHAL!! Of course I'm going to just snap away! As such, I had to be very selective in the photos that I chose here for you:
-------Pictures skipped - see earlier blog entry(s)-------
You are not allowed to take pictures inside the mausoleum itself (the tomb), as it is a sacred space, but kept really dark inside anyway, so nothing would turn out. Since there were SO many people there (Western, Asian, Indian, EVERYONE), of course many broke the rules and took pictures anyway, but I chose to be respectful and did not. I did meet a lot of Americans today - was nice to reconnect with the familiar accent, I can pick them out immediately now! LOL!!
I spent about 2 hours inside the complex, picture taking, walking around, etc. After that, I started to feel a bit hungry and decided to leave and summon Rama. Along the way, I realized they were selling Pastries filled with spiced potatoes (larger than the Samosas I've had to date, somehow they were flaky like a French Pastry). SCORE!!!! LOVE that food! I got 3 and devoured them, they were so good...
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Agra Fort
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Met back with Rama and, thankfully, all my stuff was in good standing. I knew the Universe would come through for me, I consciously worked on that faith and it worked back for me. Moreover, I trusted my instincts that I could trust this guy. I guess it was a combination of faith and gut feelings...
Anyway, the next stop was Agra Fort, the other big attraction in Agra. Along the way Rama and I chatted about the Fort, about Agra (he grew up here and has lived here his whole life) and about tourists who come to Agra. He told me a bunch of history behind the Taj and the Fort, but I couldn't retain it all and I was already on sensory overload from the Taj. He parked in a small parking lot nearby the Fort and warned me again about what I will encounter. Somehow, the Fort seemed to require even more caution, as he says pickpockets are frequent there (when they stop you to talk to you, if you stop moving, others gather around you and grab your stuff and run). Just be careful. It's like Rama was looking out for me, I was so charmed! But I got through with no problem when I followed his specific instructions - head out to the street that way, turn left, go straight through and the ticket booth is on your left. Be wary of others who watch which pocket you stick your hand into to get the money for paying your ticket. Geese! Should I carry a gun with me?? LOL :-)
I get inside and go through security. A word about security anywhere in India - the Delhi Metro, the Airport, the Taj / Fort, the train station, etc. It's a joke. They don't control it well at ALL - people constantly walk through the "Exit Only" lane completely bypassing all the security, people push and shove through the metal detectors so they can get scanned next and get ON with it! But they frisk everyone - and they aren't shy, they WILL grab your junk! LOL - happened to me a few times actually. Can't say what they do for the ladies because all ladies queues are separate from the gentlemen queues - always, in all cases in India, in all locations / terminals / transit hubs / monuments. I can't remember seeing a case where that wasn't true. There is always a protective wall around the actual ladies' security check...
So I get into Agra Fort and find it's pretty vast too - it sits on the same side of the river as the Taj but down aways, and curves upward with the river. The place is like a maze - it's fun to go through because there are so many twists, turns, unexpected hiding places, etc. I felt like a kid in a playground! Again, took SOOO many pictures, but here are a few selections:
-------Pictures skipped - see earlier blog entry(s)-------
I spent about 2 hours there as well - admiring the scenery and enjoying the breeze from the river (was really lovely, even at the back of the Taj itself). By now my camera battery was starting to drain so I tried to conserve more of my picture and video taking at this point. When I decided to leave and go find Rama, I wanted to see what he was doing when I DIDN'T call him on the cell phone but just showed up at his car. I found there were 3 - 4 other guys in his car and it looks like they were all playing poker (I saw cards being delt). They realized I was there, and Rama said something to them from behind the glass, and they all immediately vacated. LOL! Nice. Then one of them said "Sorry sir, sorry..." and did Namaste Hands to me. LOL!!!! Love the Namaste Hands in India where no one else does it but it happens to me all the time :-)...
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Craftsmanship in Agra
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so in the beginning I told Rama that I would accept his offer on the condition that he DOESN'T take me to any shops. Somehow this was forgotten, but actually, I enjoyed the side trips and (at the end of the day) felt good about giving him the extra commission for at least taking me to see the shops. They weren't ordinary shops anyway - Rama says they are government run (whatever that means, less commercial?) and will demonstrate to you how the industries of Agra thrive, so you get a fuller picture of life in the city (not just see the Taj and leave). Hmmm he already figured me out - he's trying to appeal to my intellectual side and tell me that I will be educated on this stuff with no pressure to buy. Basically Agra is known for the sights (Taj, Fort, etc.) and 3 main industries: Carving / Gem Setting, Weaving Rugs and jewelry...
To his credit, he was 66% right. Of the 3 shops we visited throughout the day, each one described a different industry, and only one of them started to get on my nerves about me buying something from them. The others were happy to just discuss the artistry, which I found intriguing when relating it to what I had seen in the Taj. Rama was calculated about when he showed me which shops, too (I realize that now) - first the Taj, then Fort, then Carving / Gem Setting (so I can see the SAME artistry that made those monuments being done right in front of my eyes). It's true, the artisans are generational and have generations going back 500 years or more - the respective craft is handed down in the family. It was fascinating to see how they work - primitive tools only, not machinery - everything done from scratch, all by hand. Even the threads that make the rugs and portraits - the threads themselves are created from scratch. I was impressed...
Soooo, unexpected to me, the Weaving shop was very interesting and I came across something that I really liked. Though beautiful and I appreciate the work that goes into them, I have no need for a giant rug in my life. Not even a small little mat made of the same material. Wait - do I? OMG I just saw this amazing little mat that I could use as a meditation mat (I would like to start a more consistent meditation practice, but have yet to be serious about it). It was black background with a bunch of surrounding Om symbols and Ganesh in the middle. I fell in love with it but played it cool, as I wanted to see what kind of price I could get. Turns out - the smallest size they have would fit my needs perfectly. 7,000 Rupees (like $160 USD) for a made from scratch, hand woven Ganesh / Om Meditation Rug. It wasn't very big, and the guy tried to up-sell me on the larger size, but I wanted the small one - that spoke to me, so I got it. 7,000 INR even includes full UPS-delivered shipping to my door in the USA so no need to lug it around with me (it wasn't even made yet, they have to create it). YES!!!
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Baby Taj (a.k.a. Itmiad ud daulah tomb)
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I skipped order a bit in describing the Agra Craftsmen. It was Taj, Fort, Carving / Gem Setting, Weaving, and THEN the Baby Taj. Did you know about this building? It's MUCH, much smaller than the Taj Mahal and doesn't carry the star power, but it is a really nice place. I found it so peaceful there - it's further south down the river. I won't write about it's history here - you can look that up yourself, but here are some of my pictures:
-------Pictures skipped - see earlier blog entry(s)-------
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Dinner with Rama
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At this point I'm beat and want to eat something and head back to the hotel to chill. Rama suggests a restaurant that he knows and is off the beaten tourist path. I forget the name now - M Something? Anyway, it's on the first floor of a hotel and they serve continental cuisine. Rama is so funny, somehow in our conversation he kept thinking I didn't know how food is served in a restaurant. "You go, yeah? Inside. Ok. Seet Down. They bring Menoo. Menoo has MANY Dings, MANY Food. You get as you like. You tell Waiter. He writes down. You wait. He brings. You eat!" I just smiled at him and I'm like "Thanks very much for explaining that, it does make sense now." But at this point I already like him so it's endearing to me...
We go, we seet down, and menoo is brought. He sits with me - wow is he going to have dinner with me?? Ok, let's roll then. After ordering, we talk about our lives - he has 2 kids, one 10 one 12 and his life revolves around them. I think he's a pretty devout Hindu (with a name like Rama, right? :-)) as he tells me something about how he follows certain eating patterns or some kind of pattern according to the day of the week. I can't remember honestly, I didn't really follow it and just kept nodding my head. Thursday is Guru day, I remember that. Tuesday and Thursdays must be vegetarian (I think). Tuesday is Hanuman day. There's a Shiva day thrown in there somewhere, don't remember where. Sunday is a free day though. Today was Tuesday, so it was Hanuman day...
Rama didn't eat with me though - as soon as the food arrived he went outside to smoke. Ok, no worries then. But holy SHIT the food was fantastic! It has to rank up there with some of the BEST Indian cuisine I have ever had. I had this Kashmiri Naan made with Almonds, Pineapples, and something else fruity that was outstanding. And to that, you add this Cashew based gravy with Paneer, Black Pepper and other Indian Spices. OMG I was devouring it - not only because I was hungry but because it was so delicious! I forgot to take a picture of it like normally do because I was too busy trying to figure how to shove the entire plate into my mouth... :-)
Get back in the car - Rama I'm ready to go "Home" to my hotel! What? Another shop (this is number 3 at this point, for the full 3). Ok ok, I'll play along and let you get your commission. Besides, he told me that the only profit he makes is from Tip from the service, the rest goes to pay the government (remember the car is not his, it's the government's, etc. etc.) But I had this image of his family waiting for him at the dinner table back home (he said he always eats dinner with his family, that's why he didn't eat with me) and my softy side caved in. I went to the jewelry shop, feigned interest for a bit, didn't buy anything, and then left. FINALLY drove me back to my hotel, and I gave him a good tip to boot. So I'd say he did pretty well, but he also worked for it by helping me out and giving me a place to trust someone...
The trust thing was especially important given my state of mind yesterday in Delhi. I didn't trust anyone or anything and I was prepared for the worst in Agra - as it is THE most touristy place in India (arguably). I was preparing to be accosted and have to deal with everything on my own. But, as the title to the blog entry says, The Universe Mocks Me - it makes me go through all that emotional shit in Delhi (I didn't sleep but 1 hour last night I was up and so worried about Agra and train travel) but then sends me a small token of hope through Rama who (unbeknown to him) helped ease my nerves...
So I'm grateful once more - grateful for the great day I had in Agra and sending out intentions for many more throughout my journey in India. Only 2 more locations to go! Rishikesh tomorrow evening, and then Amritsar next week!
Namaste and Love from Agra, India :-)
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